in wall volume control

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kmenard
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in wall volume control

Post by kmenard »

I looked and couldn't find what the consensus on using one of these as an attenuator for the 18watt...anyone?
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rjgtr
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Post by rjgtr »

There's several people who use them and like them. Then there are others who like using the Weber MASS or THD attenuators. I'm using a MASS. The speaker attenuator method probably works fine, but I think a MASS or THD would mimick normal responce better.
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Post by dartanion »

I just tried out one of the L-pad devices last week at practice with good results. The only thing that I really noticed was that the more you attenuate, the tone starts to darken a bit. Just turn the treble up to balance it out and it was fine. Mine is a stero unit rated for 35watts/side and I just used one side of it. Got a little warm but not too bad as it was not in a box.
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Post by phsyconoodler »

I use a 100 watt L-Pad rather than the wall control.I don't like the printed board on the stereo wall controls.It's just another thing to fail.
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kd
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Post by kd »

Yesterday I bought one of the Radio Shack stereo units rated at 100 watts(50 watts RMS) per channel. It works well and doesn't even get warm.



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zaphod_phil
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Post by zaphod_phil »

Pretty well all attenuators reduce highs at their more extreme attenuation settings, or have been described as producing a grainy sound at maximum attenuation. I've been a fan of Weber's MASS and MiniMASS and even they do that to some extent. AFAIK only the "Ultimate Attenuator" doesn't, because it's actually a power-scaling SS amp inside. Most attenuators (apart from Weber's) are also ridiculously expensive. So I reckon the Radio Shack attenuators are the best value going. As most EL84 amps need a little high-end roll off, I actually find the attenuator benefits the sound, and you just tweak the amp's controls to get your ideal tone.

Here's what I did with a Radio Shack attenuator:
Image
phsyconoodler wrote:I don't like the printed board on the stereo wall controls.It's just another thing to fail.
There's absolutely no reason the PCB should fail - any more than say the mounting box should fail. There's no stresses on it, if the unit is mounted correctly.
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kd
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Post by kd »

Phil,

What do you reckon the chances are that my unit will survive a JTM 45 clone with a Marstran 30 watt OT ?



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Post by macula56 »

what exactly are you getting from RS to use as an attenuator?
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kd
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Post by kd »

what exactly are you getting from RS to use as an attenuator?
It's called an "in wall speaker volume control". Radio Shack shows two of them on their site, one is mono and is rated at 25 watts RMS and the other is stereo and rated at 50 watts RMS per channel.



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kmenard
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Post by kmenard »

I picked up the Mono...I guess we will see how it works!
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Post by dansamp »

How do these compare with a Scholtz Power soak??

I have one laying around and have used it on occasion but never really liked what it did to the amps I have tried it on.
Would these give similar results ??


thanks
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Post by tubetwang »

I had the intention of building one like zaphod_phil with a red chicken head knobby + Big Lou's decal and make a killing selling it...

I was beaten to it again... :roll:
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phsyconoodler
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Post by phsyconoodler »

I guess I must have an aversion to PCB's.I find the L-Pad seems to sound better.That is probably phsycological.
I mounted and L-Pad inside a 2-12 speaker cabinet and the knob is on the outside.Believe me,it NEEDS the attenuation with the 18 watt and two Vintage 30's!
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Post by rjgtr »

dansamp wrote:How do these compare with a Scholtz Power soak??

I have one laying around and have used it on occasion but never really liked what it did to the amps I have tried it on.
Would these give similar results ??


thanks
The Sholtz is a purely resistive load. I remember when they were really popular, a lot of guys blew out their Marshall OTs with them. Generally a more reactive load like a Weber MASS or THD Hot Plate is preferred because the amp operates more like with just a speaker. As long as you are not doing extreme attenuation with the Sholtz it will probably be ok.
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Post by zaphod_phil »

rjgtr wrote:Generally a more reactive load like a Weber MASS or THD Hot Plate is preferred because the amp operates more like with just a speaker.
FYI in case anyone's wondering, the Radio Shack ones are non-resistive, and use a variable transformer system. This is one of the bests tone investments I ever made.
kd wrote:What do you reckon the chances are that my unit will survive a JTM 45 clone with a Marstran 30 watt OT ?
If your volume control is a 50W RMS one, then it's probably just about OK for a 35W RMS JTM45. But its a little close for comfort, as a cranked distorting JTM45 will probably put out a good 50W or more. If you don't turn the amp up too far, or else only partially attenuate you're probably going to be OK. Otherwise I would recommend a Weber MASS instead.
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Post by Pepi »

rjgtr wrote:
dansamp wrote:How do these compare with a Scholtz Power soak??

I have one laying around and have used it on occasion but never really liked what it did to the amps I have tried it on.
Would these give similar results ??


thanks
The Sholtz is a purely resistive load. I remember when they were really popular, a lot of guys blew out their Marshall OTs with them. Generally a more reactive load like a Weber MASS or THD Hot Plate is preferred because the amp operates more like with just a speaker. As long as you are not doing extreme attenuation with the Sholtz it will probably be ok.
+1 on that! and don't ask me how I know :x
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Post by jude »

I was going to start a new thread, but I hate overlaps....

Is THIS the in-wall volume control you kids are using these days to make your loud amps sound not so loud?

If yes, and you mount the package a different way, what did you do?

I added these pictures so that you can see the guts and, hopefully, what does what and whatnot.

Image

Image

Image
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Post by billv »

Just was in RS this eve and looked at both models. The 50 watt looks truly like two 25 watt units, which makes sense.

Looks like a high current impedance matching transformer. Pretty cool - first few steps are -3db, remaining are -6db until silent.

Anyone know the ohms rating, or does it even matter?
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Post by lagerdog »

Not that I know what I am talking about, but I looked into them a while back after Phil swore by them, but I think they are 8 ohm. If you want to run at 16 ohm, couldn't you just use a resistor in series or hook two together and keep one on max? These things cost next to nothing, IIRC...
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Post by billv »

$17 and iirc $30 or thereabouts for the 25w mono and 2x25w stereo versions respectfully.
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