New 36w Build Thread
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
So this weekend was more cab work whilst waiting on my new punches and chassis.
Got the combo cab done completely except for piping, cloth, and handles which are in the mail.
I got my chassis and punches on Monday and I've gotten myself back to essentially where I was when I decided to start over. More pictures to come of the holes from the new punches!
Got the combo cab done completely except for piping, cloth, and handles which are in the mail.
I got my chassis and punches on Monday and I've gotten myself back to essentially where I was when I decided to start over. More pictures to come of the holes from the new punches!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
good job! i like it,are you going to use a sealer/finish on the cab? i used danish oil on my guitar and it really brings the grain of the wood out with a nice satin finish.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
It's a little hard to tell but if you compare the wood color through the back of the cab to the sides, you can tell that I used a white stain to whitewash it. On the pic of the front it's a little less apparent, but in real life it's pretty obvious that it's got a stain on it. There will be thin wipe on poly after that to "protect" it. I just haven't done the poly yet, though it's quick application and quick dry.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
The Shark! The Shark was a game changer! Here's a pic of the 3/4" punch that's part of my kit of Shark punches. Old japanese set that zipped through and did a great job.
All the new tube socket/can cap holes punched. Very happy with the results
The 3/4" punch was was absolutely perfect
The brass hardware from valvestorm didn't look too shabby either
Like pretty little maids, all in a row
This will be the last time you see this board in here without it being wired up! (but it's still fun to look at)
All in all that turned out to be a much more successful punching session than the last. All I need to do now is open up the hole for the PT again and i'll be good to go! Here's to progress. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Nice! Good punches are amazing compared to the crap we tried. It's like going from a butter knife to a table saw.
I'm not sure if you've looked at the way other people do the PT cutout, but usually people just drill the 4 corners and then connect the outsides with a jig saw before filing.
I'm not sure if you've looked at the way other people do the PT cutout, but usually people just drill the 4 corners and then connect the outsides with a jig saw before filing.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
So I had another good workday yesterday, and I must say that I'm really happy with how everything is coming along, especially after the chassis setback. I got my PT hole cut. This time instead of punching a bunch of holes, i just scored from the 4 corner holes and cut it out with the jigsaw. Both methods end up about the same and require probably the same amount of filing. Cutting the whole thing with the jigsaw is a little less time consuming, I will say. It's just way noisier, but nothing wadded up kleenex couldn't fix. haha.
Will all holes punched and drilled and filed and ready...it was finally time. Started with the necessary grunt work on the heaters. I'm really happy with the way they came out. Once I was done with those, I didn't feel like stopping, so I started wiring the PT up. Got the rectifier, the pilot, standby, power, and half of the mains fuse wired up. That is that so far, but I get another go at it tonight! I'll keep you guys posted.
Will all holes punched and drilled and filed and ready...it was finally time. Started with the necessary grunt work on the heaters. I'm really happy with the way they came out. Once I was done with those, I didn't feel like stopping, so I started wiring the PT up. Got the rectifier, the pilot, standby, power, and half of the mains fuse wired up. That is that so far, but I get another go at it tonight! I'll keep you guys posted.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Thanks for the encouragement!
Well so far I have some old brimars that test pretty good for the pres, not sure about power at this point.
For speakers I have a quad of Kendrick green frames that I'm gonna use in both cabs. I've been playing them in a Marshall b cab and they sound amazing.
http://www.kendrick-amplifiers.com/mm5/ ... ry_Code=12
I'll start with them. I'd like to get some nice 20 watt greenbacks for the combo though.
Well so far I have some old brimars that test pretty good for the pres, not sure about power at this point.
For speakers I have a quad of Kendrick green frames that I'm gonna use in both cabs. I've been playing them in a Marshall b cab and they sound amazing.
http://www.kendrick-amplifiers.com/mm5/ ... ry_Code=12
I'll start with them. I'd like to get some nice 20 watt greenbacks for the combo though.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Is there a reason you want greenbacks as opposed to the "greenframe" speakers you have? I've never heard the greenframes, but they look like they want to be boutique versions of the old school greenbacks...GlassTornado wrote:I'd like to get some nice 20 watt greenbacks for the combo though.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
It's more of a "if a couple of 20w greenbacks fell in my lap" I would be inclined to try them, but in all reality the Kendrick's are what will stay in it. They are exactly what you describe them as...boutique greenback, and they sound killer. I just tend to fall down rabbit holes in my head where I can't leave good enough alone. haha
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Hehehe, I hear you. I would never choose celestion over a good clone, especially if made in the US or England. New greenbacks are made in China, and cost MORE. That makes no sense to me. There's a ton of great alternatives including the Eminence Private Jack that I have in one of my amps right now...and I would try 100 other speakers before buying a new celestion.
Of course, if a UK made greenback fell in my lap, I wouldn't argue either.
Of course, if a UK made greenback fell in my lap, I wouldn't argue either.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
that's what i like to hear!
the chinese are getting better with the quality of their products but not when it comes to speakers,it's got to be U.K. or U.S.A. made!
Peavey is a good example,they were renowned for good speakers in their amps but then they started putting those crap "blue marvel's" in.
the chinese are getting better with the quality of their products but not when it comes to speakers,it's got to be U.K. or U.S.A. made!
Peavey is a good example,they were renowned for good speakers in their amps but then they started putting those crap "blue marvel's" in.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Yeah, they're not horrible or anything. But if you're going to outsource to China, I better be saving money. It's crazy to me to pay more for a factory import speaker from China when I can get something awesome and domestic for less.geoff 1965 wrote:that's what i like to hear!
the chinese are getting better with the quality of their products but not when it comes to speakers,it's got to be U.K. or U.S.A. made!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
true Josh,
i'm not knocking the chinese,just stating a fact.when it comes to speakers quality of components count i.e. metals used,cone material,alnico magnets etc and anyone who can weld will tell you the difference between chinese aluminium and U.K. or U.S. aluminium!
sadly it comes down to money,celestion,eminence,peavey even the classic vox amps are made in china "sacrilege" but if they did'nt they would go out of business trying to compete.like you say,why pay more for an import that is'nt as good as the originals! crazy!
what we need is chinese production costs to come up to the same as the U.K. and U.S.A. and it will bring much needed jobs and business back!
i'm not knocking the chinese,just stating a fact.when it comes to speakers quality of components count i.e. metals used,cone material,alnico magnets etc and anyone who can weld will tell you the difference between chinese aluminium and U.K. or U.S. aluminium!
sadly it comes down to money,celestion,eminence,peavey even the classic vox amps are made in china "sacrilege" but if they did'nt they would go out of business trying to compete.like you say,why pay more for an import that is'nt as good as the originals! crazy!
what we need is chinese production costs to come up to the same as the U.K. and U.S.A. and it will bring much needed jobs and business back!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
I didn't think you were knocking them. Let's leave politics out of it. I don't really care where anything is made if it's made well. And while Chinese product quality is getting a little better, it's still not as good as US/UK. But even if Celestion was still made in the UK, I wouldn't pay more for their Greenback than an Eminence or US boutique version. Brand loyalty means nothing to me. Every major brand makes good and bad products, and every one of them has consistency issues.
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
we are drifting away from the subject thread here so come on "GlassTornado" let's see some more pics & info!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
We're WAY off topic.geoff 1965 wrote:we are drifting away from the subject thread here so come on "GlassTornado" let's see some more pics & info!
I agree, more pics!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Alrighty! We'll get back on track here. Sorry for the delay. Band's been recording, and we've had some shows getting in the way of my building! haha.
Let's see, where were we:
Got all the connections hooked up on the power tubes. I prefer individual 100ohm resistors for the b+ on each socket rather than 1 larger single. It also works out with me using a 18w sized board because I chose to do bias cathode resistor/cathode for the two pairs of tubes instead of one for all four. I also moved the four 8.2k grid stoppers directly on to the sockets because there wasn't room on the board either. This is the setup I have going on my currrent 36w and it does just fine.
Obligatory cliff jack wiring pic
After wiring the OT primary and secondary and the output jacks.
Another angle of the cable routing as it starts to build up
I like the next picture because of what it becomes afterwards...but this is the board with 90% of the leads soldered on it waiting to be installed.
And now for one of my shining achievements of this build. I decided to lace the two larger groups of wires instead of just zip tying. It was a bit of a pain at first, but I'm 100% stoked of how it came out.
This is last of my progress as of 10:30 last night. Actually I have the whole "pot side" of the board done except for the two caps on the trem side pots.
I know it's a lot, but I would work a little, and take pics, and then they've just build up. I'm getting pretty close though. Hopefully I'll get to light some filaments by next weekend!
Let's see, where were we:
Got all the connections hooked up on the power tubes. I prefer individual 100ohm resistors for the b+ on each socket rather than 1 larger single. It also works out with me using a 18w sized board because I chose to do bias cathode resistor/cathode for the two pairs of tubes instead of one for all four. I also moved the four 8.2k grid stoppers directly on to the sockets because there wasn't room on the board either. This is the setup I have going on my currrent 36w and it does just fine.
Obligatory cliff jack wiring pic
After wiring the OT primary and secondary and the output jacks.
Another angle of the cable routing as it starts to build up
I like the next picture because of what it becomes afterwards...but this is the board with 90% of the leads soldered on it waiting to be installed.
And now for one of my shining achievements of this build. I decided to lace the two larger groups of wires instead of just zip tying. It was a bit of a pain at first, but I'm 100% stoked of how it came out.
This is last of my progress as of 10:30 last night. Actually I have the whole "pot side" of the board done except for the two caps on the trem side pots.
I know it's a lot, but I would work a little, and take pics, and then they've just build up. I'm getting pretty close though. Hopefully I'll get to light some filaments by next weekend!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
you're attention to detail with the wiring is superb! makes mine look like a bowl of spaghetti!
can i ask what gauge & type of wire you used,is it ptfe? also did you use single core or stranded for your heater supply?
keep it up! if this amp sounds as good as it looks it's going to be awesome!
can i ask what gauge & type of wire you used,is it ptfe? also did you use single core or stranded for your heater supply?
keep it up! if this amp sounds as good as it looks it's going to be awesome!
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Re: New 36w Build Thread
Thanks for the kind words! On this one I've been really keeping "measure twice, cut once" close to my heart. Plus I got a little jealous...I have a buddy that has done some NOS style builds of a 45/100, Black Flag 50, and a 12,000 series Super Lead, and his lead dress and routing is tough to beat. So this one I wanted to see if I had the hand and patience.
As far as the wire I'm using it's the 22awg that Valvestorm.com sells. The technical info they have for it is: 22 AWG UL Style 1015 VW-1 105°C 600 Volts CSA TEW 105°C Wire
All the colors I'm using is just from their plexi amp wiring kit: http://valvestorm.com/Products/Wire
So the heaters are also 22awg stranded. But all the wire is pre-tinned, so there's no stray whiskers when you strip it.
As far as the wire I'm using it's the 22awg that Valvestorm.com sells. The technical info they have for it is: 22 AWG UL Style 1015 VW-1 105°C 600 Volts CSA TEW 105°C Wire
All the colors I'm using is just from their plexi amp wiring kit: http://valvestorm.com/Products/Wire
So the heaters are also 22awg stranded. But all the wire is pre-tinned, so there's no stray whiskers when you strip it.
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