First sounds of the 18W TMB tremolo build

[Bieworm]

Burn the heretic!

I'm already on

You ought to be so overwhelmed with remorse that you have to build a reverb in your most precious amp to make up!

I think it would be much funnier if we sneak into ZP's house and install reverbs in all his amps while he's out.

...and rivet them amps closed

[Bieworm]

Question:
Does it matter on what valve the connection from pin 3 the wire goes to the 180R bias resistor and 1000uf cap? Mine is connected on V4 while the lay-out says V5. So my jumper wire goes from pin 3 V4 to pin 3 V5. It was a matter of keeping the wires short. My gut feeling says that this is perfectly fine, but just checking if this can have side effects.
Also wonder as an alternative for the Ruby mod maybe a cut control would help get rid of fizz... But what is the consequential downside of that?

[JMPGuitars]

Question:
Does it matter on what valve the connection from pin 3 the wire goes to the 180R bias resistor and 1000uf cap? Mine is connected on V4 while the lay-out says V5. So my jumper wire goes from pin 3 V4 to pin 3 V5. It was a matter of keeping the wires short. My gut feeling says that this is perfectly fine, but just checking if this can have side effects.
Also wonder as an alternative for the Ruby mod maybe a cut control would help get rid of fizz... But what is the consequential downside of that?

Your gut was correct. It's arbitrary. You can run it to either tube, or run both tubes separately to the cathode resistor.

The ruby mod is super easy, and clean. Just go with that if you have fizz.

[Bieworm]

Question:
Does it matter on what valve the connection from pin 3 the wire goes to the 180R bias resistor and 1000uf cap? Mine is connected on V4 while the lay-out says V5. So my jumper wire goes from pin 3 V4 to pin 3 V5. It was a matter of keeping the wires short. My gut feeling says that this is perfectly fine, but just checking if this can have side effects.
Also wonder as an alternative for the Ruby mod maybe a cut control would help get rid of fizz... But what is the consequential downside of that?

Your gut was correct. It's arbitrary. You can run it to either tube, or run both tubes separately to the cathode resistor.

The ruby mod is super easy, and clean. Just go with that if you have fizz.

Got some stuff on the way ...
BUT the only diodes and zeners I could get were:

UF5408
1N5359B

I'll have to try it with those

[JMPGuitars]

Got some stuff on the way ...
BUT the only diodes and zeners I could get were:

UF5408
1N5359B

I'll have to try it with those

Those 24V Zeners are almost certainly too high. You want your Zener diodes to be around 2V higher than your cathode voltage. So somewhere in the vicinity of 14V. I recommended 15V in the docs, and I've seen people go as high as 16 and test well. You can try the 24V, but there's a good chance it won't work.

The UF5408 should be fine, that's supposed to be a higher wattage version of the UF4007 (1W vs 3W).

Thanks,
Josh

[Bieworm]

Got some stuff on the way ...
BUT the only diodes and zeners I could get were:

UF5408
1N5359B

I'll have to try it with those

Those 24V Zeners are almost certainly too high. You want your Zener diodes to be around 2V higher than your cathode voltage. So somewhere in the vicinity of 14V. I recommended 15V in the docs, and I've seen people go as high as 16 and test well. You can try the 24V, but there's a good chance it won't work.

The UF5408 should be fine, that's supposed to be a higher wattage version of the UF4007 (1W vs 3W).

Thanks,
Josh

Right,now I remember .. bought those zenders to drop the B+. The were the lowest voltage 5 watters I could find.
Couldn't find the ones die the PR mod. Is there an alternative for zeners for the fizz? LED ?

[JMPGuitars]

Right,now I remember .. bought those zenders to drop the B+. The were the lowest voltage 5 watters I could find.
Couldn't find the ones die the PR mod. Is there an alternative for zeners for the fizz? LED ?

5W is only for the voltage dropping. You can use 1W or probably even .5W for the Ruby Mod. 1N4744 is what I put in the schematic for that mod. Those are about 1W. Doesn't Mouser ship to you? They have outlets everywhere.

[zaphod_phil]

I think it would be much funnier if we sneaked into ZP's house and installed reverbs in all his amps while he's out.

...and rivet them amps closed

How low!

[Bieworm]

Right,now I remember .. bought those zenders to drop the B+. The were the lowest voltage 5 watters I could find.
Couldn't find the ones die the PR mod. Is there an alternative for zeners for the fizz? LED ?

5W is only for the voltage dropping. You can use 1W or probably even .5W for the Ruby Mod. 1N4744 is what I put in the schematic for that mod. Those are about 1W. Doesn't Mouser ship to you? They have outlets everywhere.

Some more crappy recordings with the TMB tremolo :
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sh56wppb87ti6 ... 3.m4a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9q2woypzpc51 ... 4.m4a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9q2woypzpc51 ... 4.m4a?dl=0

[JMPGuitars]

Some more crappy recordings with the TMB tremolo :
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sh56wppb87ti6 ... 3.m4a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9q2woypzpc51 ... 4.m4a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9q2woypzpc51 ... 4.m4a?dl=0

I really like the overall sound of your amp. In some parts it definitely sounds like you'll benefit from the Ruby mod.

Now, if you want to mess around a little more, let's try something out.

The 470K/470K attenuator going in to pin 2 of V2, let's move that away from the tube.
In between that and pin 2 let's add a couple things:

Put a 10K (or so) resistor back at pin 2 of V2.

Add a new knob for gain control, A1M. Connect pot pin 1 to the 470K/470K attenuator; connect pot pin 2 to the 10K resistor at pin 2 of V2 (using shielded cable only on this one); connect pot pin 3 to ground.

I'm guessing that will give you all the control you need.

If that works out for you, I'll either add that to the docs, or make a second version.

Thanks,
Josh

[Bieworm]

Some more crappy recordings with the TMB tremolo :
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sh56wppb87ti6 ... 3.m4a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9q2woypzpc51 ... 4.m4a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9q2woypzpc51 ... 4.m4a?dl=0

I really like the overall sound of your amp. In some parts it definitely sounds like you'll benefit from the Ruby mod.

Now, if you want to mess around a little more, let's try something out.

The 470K/470K attenuator going in to pin 2 of V2, let's move that away from the tube.
In between that and pin 2 let's add a couple things:

Put a 10K (or so) resistor back at pin 2 of V2.

Add a new knob for gain control, A1M. Connect pot pin 1 to the 470K/470K attenuator; connect pot pin 2 to the 10K resistor at pin 2 of V2 (using shielded cable only on this one); connect pot pin 3 to ground.

I'm guessing that will give you all the control you need.

If that works out for you, I'll either add that to the docs, or make a second version.

Thanks,
Josh

EDIT: I attached a schematic including the changes.

I like it big time too.
Going to perform the mod this evening and report back.
Thx

Edit: don't do it. It removed no grind, but only scooped off the highs and only dulled the sound to boring woolly and unrefined . Really not a progress. Not even worth recording. I changed it back. Anyway, Josh... it's just plain great as is. No need for tweaking, unless the PR mod.. otherwise it's really really great sounding. I think I will use it for a few rehearshals ( when quarantine is over!!!) and see from there. Apart from the fizz it's really good sounding. I am going to focus on the Ruby mod and building her home. Thx anyway

[zaphod_phil]

To bring back your highs and get rid of the dullness, I recommend placing a 100pF or 200pF treble bleed cap between pins 1 and 2 of the pot, as well as one across the series resistor in the 470K/470K attenuator pair.

[AussieTim]

Just had a listen to your sound clips and realised I need to get off my arse and finish my 18 watt project it has stalled for way too long, Ive realised this is what is missing in my life. Now that freedom work etc. is missing and I have time on my hands I am about to get busy with the soldering iron.
Tim

[Bieworm]

Just had a listen to your sound clips and realised I need to get off my arse and finish my 18 watt project it has stalled for way too long, Ive realised this is what is missing in my life. Now that freedom work etc. is missing and I have time on my hands I am about to get busy with the soldering iron.
Tim

start now!

[Bieworm]

To bring back your highs and get rid of the dullness, I recommend placing a 100pF or 200pF treble bleed cap between pins 1 and 2 of the pot, as well as one across the series resistor in the 470K/470K attenuator pair.

ZP... then there's still the OD from zero on the vol dial. I don't think that this mod's a solution.
Don't shoot, but I don't need heavy distortion anyway. I never use it and if I do there are good pedal on my board to move in that direction. I am satisfied when I have a light amount of drive at 3-4 on the vol dial. I aim for the breakup point on that setting. Now maybe...just maybe... an adjustable NFB loop would bring solace? If it could act like my classic 18W, but with TMB tone abilities. Wouldn't it be possible? And as an extra I have no need for the ruby mod, since the OD will never get into that area?
Any info on the values of caps, resistors and pot?
How about the JA TMB version 2.0 ?

[JMPGuitars]

ZP... then there's still the OD from zero on the vol dial. I don't think that this mod's a solution.
Don't shoot, but I don't need heavy distortion anyway. I never use it and if I do there are good pedal on my board to move in that direction. I am satisfied when I have a light amount of drive at 3-4 on the vol dial. I aim for the breakup point on that setting. Now maybe...just maybe... an adjustable NFB loop would bring solace? If it could act like my classic 18W, but with TMB tone abilities. Wouldn't it be possible? And as an extra I have no need for the ruby mod, since the OD will never get into that area?
Any info on the values of caps, resistors and pot?
How about the JA TMB version 2.0 ?

In theory this mod should reduce the gain, so maybe something else is wrong.

NFB is not the answer. It will kill the tone of the amp, and reduce the touch sensitivity.

Another option you have is to lower the second resistor (the one to ground) from the 470K/470K attenuator. You could try 330K or 220K and see what kind of results you get. If this reduces the gain, but you also feel you're lacking some of the highs, then do ZP's suggestion. Add a 100pF cap across the 470K series resistor.

You definitely need the Ruby Mod. I heard it in your demos. Installing the Ruby Mod could very well improve the way the amp works for you, and improve the distortion sound. Don't give up on it because it's hard for you to source (which it shouldn't be - you were looking at too high a wattage). Find a 1 watt 15V Zener diode. 16V or 14V would be fine too.

[Bieworm]

ZP... then there's still the OD from zero on the vol dial. I don't think that this mod's a solution.
Don't shoot, but I don't need heavy distortion anyway. I never use it and if I do there are good pedal on my board to move in that direction. I am satisfied when I have a light amount of drive at 3-4 on the vol dial. I aim for the breakup point on that setting. Now maybe...just maybe... an adjustable NFB loop would bring solace? If it could act like my classic 18W, but with TMB tone abilities. Wouldn't it be possible? And as an extra I have no need for the ruby mod, since the OD will never get into that area?
Any info on the values of caps, resistors and pot?
How about the JA TMB version 2.0 ?

In theory this mod should reduce the gain, so maybe something else is wrong.

NFB is not the answer. It will kill the tone of the amp, and reduce the touch sensitivity.

Another option you have is to lower the second resistor (the one to ground) from the 470K/470K attenuator. You could try 330K or 220K and see what kind of results you get. If this reduces the gain, but you also feel you're lacking some of the highs, then do ZP's suggestion. Add a 100pF cap across the 470K series resistor.

You definitely need the Ruby Mod. I heard it in your demos. Installing the Ruby Mod could very well improve the way the amp works for you, and improve the distortion sound. Don't give up on it because it's hard for you to source (which it shouldn't be - you were looking at too high a wattage). Find a 1 watt 15V Zener diode. 16V or 14V would be fine too.

I found a supplier. So will be ordering them 15V 1.3W zeners.
But all that tweaking has made the amp noisy..sh*t! I can not find the problem. Chopsticked and resoldered everything that I've been tweaking but no result. When I start playing the noise goes away and I think it stays away. But when I switch the amp off and little later back on ..The noise is there again.
I will order new and better turrets + all the board components again and redo it. But first I want to be tweaked out... so I can built a neat and new board without the perspective of soldering on and off after that.
I pulled the preamp tubes and the noise is there too. Must be a connection somewhere...
This is a very vague description and I realise it can have a ton of causes ...But anything comes to mind?

[JMPGuitars]

I found a supplier. So will be ordering them 15V 1.3W zeners.
But all that tweaking has made the amp noisy..sh*t! I can not find the problem. Chopsticked and resoldered everything that I've been tweaking but no result. When I start playing the noise goes away and I think it stays away. But when I switch the amp off and little later back on ..The noise is there again.
I will order new and better turrets + all the board components again and redo it. But first I want to be tweaked out... so I can built a neat and new board without the perspective of soldering on and off after that.
I pulled the preamp tubes and the noise is there too. Must be a connection somewhere...
This is a very vague description and I realise it can have a ton of causes ...But anything comes to mind?

If you pulled the preamp tubes, and you still have the noise, then the noise isn't in the preamp.

When you rebuild, be sure to follow the latest layout (whatever that is at the time ).

Post your current voltages, and a sample of the noise.

[Bieworm]

I found a supplier. So will be ordering them 15V 1.3W zeners.
But all that tweaking has made the amp noisy..sh*t! I can not find the problem. Chopsticked and resoldered everything that I've been tweaking but no result. When I start playing the noise goes away and I think it stays away. But when I switch the amp off and little later back on ..The noise is there again.
I will order new and better turrets + all the board components again and redo it. But first I want to be tweaked out... so I can built a neat and new board without the perspective of soldering on and off after that.
I pulled the preamp tubes and the noise is there too. Must be a connection somewhere...
This is a very vague description and I realise it can have a ton of causes ...But anything comes to mind?

If you pulled the preamp tubes, and you still have the noise, then the noise isn't in the preamp.

When you rebuild, be sure to follow the latest layout (whatever that is at the time ).

Post your current voltages, and a sample of the noise.

I keep thinking it's the wire from V3 pin 2. Where it's connected to the .022 cap and 470k resistor I can hear noise when scratching with the chopstick. I already replaced that resistor tu rule that one out...

[JMPGuitars]

Post your current voltages, and a sample of the noise.

I keep thinking it's the wire from V3 pin 2. Where it's connected to the .022 cap and 470k resistor I can hear noise when scratching with the chopstick. I already replaced that resistor tu rule that one out...

That's because you're guessing. See my comment above.