18 Watts Bluesbreaker style combo cabinet

[davemojo]

Hi All,

I have attached couple of pictures in here to show my new little first time ever project build.
If you look at the combo cabinet, I will place the chassis facing the top of the cabinet from there is where you can access all the controls.

Now let me see if I can be clear on my explanation, the amp chassis which is in aluminum will have the power-cord outlet facing toward down.

Now in my case I am opting for a fully open back, semi closed and fully closed, basically I have all 3 options.

The problem with power-cord could come an issue with a fully closed what can be done to have instead the power-cord outlet on the back panel? The Amp chassis is attached on the inside of the back panel.

The back panel is made by 3 pieces top part where the cassis is screwed in, the middle part and the bottom, this will allow me to have fully open semi open and closed.

Would I probably need to cut the power cord from the chassis' outlet and connect it to another outlet on the wooden back panel? Would that be an option?

I am not sure if my explanation is clear... without showing the real thing can be challenging to explain.

In other word if you look at the 4th photo from the Internet the Bluesbreaker usually is semi open and you can probably see the power cord coming from the inside of the cabinet from the amp chassis but instead I want to use and outlet for the power cord on the bottom panel on the right or left side away from the chassis.

Hope you like my combo cabinet is the first time I build one and the covering it with red elephant leatherette was really challenging

Open to any suggestions,

note
Thsi project is to be used with Organ B3 and Organ Crumar Mojo

[Bieworm]

I would never do an 18W closed back combo. Expect issues like rattling and such. There is some serious low end even without closed back.
If you need to have it tighter you're better off with an extension cab for that matter.
Anywayz.. if you do the closed back you could also leave a small cutaway on the upper side of the middle panel, just enough for the wire to pass through...

Fwiw, I had built a 75% closed back on my modern classic combo. It would keep rattling anf nothing I did helped.. until I removed the large panel and put in a smaller panel. I ain't going that road ever again...it's too frustrating

And don't underestimate the heat those EL84 tubes generate ..

Reeeeeeeeally nice cab though!!!

[davemojo]

I would never do an 18W closed back combo. Expect issues like rattling and such. There is some serious low end even without closed back.
If you need to have it tighter you're better off with an extension cab for that matter.
Anywayz.. if you do the closed back you could also leave a small cutaway on the upper side of the middle panel, just enough for the wire to pass through...

Fwiw, I had built a 75% closed back on my modern classic combo. It would keep rattling anf nothing I did helped.. until I removed the large panel and put in a smaller panel. I ain't going that road ever again...it's too frustrating

And don't underestimate the heat those EL84 tubes generate ..

Reeeeeeeeally nice cab though!!!

Hey thanks for the advise, I think you right.

I have the back panel but I haven't cut it yet or even covered with leatherette so I am in time to actually leave it semi open basically as it is the original bluesbreaker.

Initially I was thinking not to get enough low end but you right is the opposite.

Thanks

[Bieworm]

Just get yourself a good speaker. I prefer the old g12h30, but there are pretty good alternatives. I have a tremolo TMB with an old g12h30 and one with a G12M65 creamback. The old one is amazing!! But the creamback is pretty good too. I have a 24W combo with a modern g12h30 and a classic lead 80 combined. That sounds really big and tight too. I'm a big fan of the classic lead 80.. bogner puts them in the shiva combo. Nuff said
Josh has some pretty good experience with WGS stuff.. if you're US based those might be more affordable. Here in Europe the celestions are pretty cheap 2nd hand. And the Marshall stuff is European anyway
Hey .. there's enough things we envy towards US stuff, so we're entitled to have some good material...

[JMPGuitars]

Open back is definitely the best choice. I also recommend using an IEC inlet rather than hard wiring the power cord.

[davemojo]

Thanks guys for all the advise, this is a great forum at least for me I received so far good guidelines.

I got myself already a pair of Celestion G12M GreenBack

I got all parts ready to build actually I'm half way I will post a picture of the full work and a link to a YouTube demonstration of the outcome

Wish me good luck hehehe

[TriodeLuvr]

I would never do an 18W closed back combo. Expect issues like rattling and such. There is some serious low end even without closed back.
If you need to have it tighter you're better off with an extension cab for that matter.
Anywayz.. if you do the closed back you could also leave a small cutaway on the upper side of the middle panel, just enough for the wire to pass through...

Fwiw, I had built a 75% closed back on my modern classic combo. It would keep rattling anf nothing I did helped.. until I removed the large panel and put in a smaller panel. I ain't going that road ever again...it's too frustrating

And don't underestimate the heat those EL84 tubes generate ..

Reeeeeeeeally nice cab though!!!

I think this could only be accomplished if the volume of the cabinet and the Fs and other parameters of the speaker were such that a port of reasonably large proportions (to release the heat) could be properly tuned. Haven't done the calcs in a number of years, but it's very possible that the average 18W combo cabinet simply isn't large enough to support that requirement, even using a 12" speaker with a relatively high Fs.

About the rattles, I've built a number of hi-fi cabinets over the years with removable backs or fronts, but they were made from much thicker/denser material than guitar cabinets. My current cabinets are 1.5" MDF. I also line the mating edges where the panels bolt in place with strips of felt, and screws are spaced not more than 6" apart. For a guitar cabinet, that spacing would probably need to be not less than 4", and I don't think the mating surfaces can be Tolex-to-Tolex. If they are, because it's so non-compliant, you might need screws every 2" or so.

All things considered, the extra weight needed to do this right, plus all the compromises that have to be made in order to accommodate an amplifier in the same cabinet, add up to a big no-go IMO.

Jack

[davemojo]

I would never do an 18W closed back combo. Expect issues like rattling and such. There is some serious low end even without closed back.
If you need to have it tighter you're better off with an extension cab for that matter.
Anywayz.. if you do the closed back you could also leave a small cutaway on the upper side of the middle panel, just enough for the wire to pass through...

Fwiw, I had built a 75% closed back on my modern classic combo. It would keep rattling anf nothing I did helped.. until I removed the large panel and put in a smaller panel. I ain't going that road ever again...it's too frustrating

And don't underestimate the heat those EL84 tubes generate ..

Reeeeeeeeally nice cab though!!!

My combo cabinet is about 10 cm (About 4 inches I believe) 4 cm higher (about 1 1/2 ") and about 3 cm in depth wider than the original Bluesbreaker, so the inside volume is a lot more. The material is plywood 1.6 cm thick (0.6 inches) and the front baffle panel is in MDF with that same thickness. Only the real panel is 1.2 cm little less thicker.

The front baffle is removable with screw using some sort of T Nuts with thread. Overall the cabinet is very robust and was built with finger joint.

I think this could only be accomplished if the volume of the cabinet and the Fs and other parameters of the speaker were such that a port of reasonably large proportions (to release the heat) could be properly tuned. Haven't done the calcs in a number of years, but it's very possible that the average 18W combo cabinet simply isn't large enough to support that requirement, even using a 12" speaker with a relatively high Fs.

About the rattles, I've built a number of hi-fi cabinets over the years with removable backs or fronts, but they were made from much thicker/denser material than guitar cabinets. My current cabinets are 1.5" MDF. I also line the mating edges where the panels bolt in place with strips of felt, and screws are spaced not more than 6" apart. For a guitar cabinet, that spacing would probably need to be not less than 4", and I don't think the mating surfaces can be Tolex-to-Tolex. If they are, because it's so non-compliant, you might need screws every 2" or so.

All things considered, the extra weight needed to do this right, plus all the compromises that have to be made in order to accommodate an amplifier in the same cabinet, add up to a big no-go IMO.

Jack

[TriodeLuvr]

My combo cabinet is about 10 cm (About 4 inches I believe) 4 cm higher (about 1 1/2 ") and about 3 cm in depth wider than the original Bluesbreaker, so the inside volume is a lot more. The material is plywood 1.6 cm thick (0.6 inches) and the front baffle panel is in MDF with that same thickness. Only the real panel is 1.2 cm little less thicker.

The front baffle is removable with screw using some sort of T Nuts with thread. Overall the cabinet is very robust and was built with finger joint.

That's a good-sized cabinet, but I can't tell you off the top of my head if it's possible to port in such a way so as not to suffocate the amp. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it, especially on a first build. That's a beautiful cabinet, BTW. If it was me, I would build a ported auxiliary speaker cabinet that won't be compromised by the need to accommodate amplifier ventilation. That makes the whole process a lot simpler and more likely to be a success.

Jack

[davemojo]

My combo cabinet is about 10 cm (About 4 inches I believe) 4 cm higher (about 1 1/2 ") and about 3 cm in depth wider than the original Bluesbreaker, so the inside volume is a lot more. The material is plywood 1.6 cm thick (0.6 inches) and the front baffle panel is in MDF with that same thickness. Only the real panel is 1.2 cm little less thicker.

The front baffle is removable with screw using some sort of T Nuts with thread. Overall the cabinet is very robust and was built with finger joint.

That's a good-sized cabinet, but I can't tell you off the top of my head if it's possible to port in such a way so as not to suffocate the amp. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it, especially on a first build. That's a beautiful cabinet, BTW. If it was me, I would build a ported auxiliary speaker cabinet that won't be compromised by the need to accommodate amplifier ventilation. That makes the whole process a lot simpler and more likely to be a success.

Jack

Thanks Jack, I am going to keep it open I am convinced it will sound great with the Organ, actually i know we have an original bluebreaker, so I know it is capable to get to a nice distortion and that is all I want to be honest, distortion for my Organ.

[davemojo]

Hey All,

I have completed the baffle with Fender style Grill Cloth gold theme. I have to pipe it around the edge with tick golden pipe.

At the moment is not screwed to the internal fame I have just inserted for showing you here that is why you may see some uneven gap between the baffle and the front red long panel, without screwing it from the inside is a little unstable

[Bieworm]

Hey All,

I have completed the baffle with Fender style Grill Cloth gold theme. I have to pipe it around the edge with tick golden pipe.

At the moment is not screwed to the internal fame I have just inserted for showing you here that is why you may see some uneven gap between the baffle and the front red long panel, without screwing it from the inside is a little unstable

Don't use thick piping. That looks very cheap. It's only acceptable on a 4x12 cab.
I did my first 18W with thick piping (5mm), but ended up ripping it off and putting on medium piping (3mm)

20201030_100029.jpg

20200228_225525.jpg

[davemojo]

Hey All,

I have completed the baffle with Fender style Grill Cloth gold theme. I have to pipe it around the edge with tick golden pipe.

At the moment is not screwed to the internal fame I have just inserted for showing you here that is why you may see some uneven gap between the baffle and the front red long panel, without screwing it from the inside is a little unstable

Don't use thick piping. That looks very cheap. It's only acceptable on a 4x12 cab.
I did my first 18W with thick piping (5mm), but ended up ripping it off and putting on medium piping (3mm)

20201030_100029.jpg20200228_225525.jpg

Oh ok thanks well then I was wrong it must be medium since it is 3 mm but on Tonefactory was listed as thick so unsure.

Like I said I am building experience this is my very first build.

Thank you

[Bieworm]

Look, thats the stuff I buy at tube town:

20210301_195706.jpg

[davemojo]

Hey All,

I have completed the baffle with Fender style Grill Cloth gold theme. I have to pipe it around the edge with tick golden pipe.

At the moment is not screwed to the internal fame I have just inserted for showing you here that is why you may see some uneven gap between the baffle and the front red long panel, without screwing it from the inside is a little unstable

Don't use thick piping. That looks very cheap. It's only acceptable on a 4x12 cab.
I did my first 18W with thick piping (5mm), but ended up ripping it off and putting on medium piping (3mm)

20201030_100029.jpg20200228_225525.jpg

It's really beautiful yours perfect and yes medium piping a lot better very cool.

My second build is going to be a twin reverb for my Fender Rhodes

[Bieworm]

Naaahh.. not a twin??? I think that's about the most overrated amp ever. I let myself buy one up to 3 times.. and everytime I had one it was gone within a week. Its 80 lbs dead weight and it's very hard to cut through the mix, even if it was 100W ... boring. But that's my opinion. Somr would lynch me for saying this aloud..
I'd do a 5F6 for that rhodes.. or better , a 100W plexi!!!

[davemojo]

I have added the piping around

[davemojo]

Naaahh.. not a twin??? I think that's about the most overrated amp ever. I let myself buy one up to 3 times.. and everytime I had one it was gone within a week. Its 80 lbs dead weight and it's very hard to cut through the mix, even if it was 100W ... boring. But that's my opinion. Somr would lynch me for saying this aloud..
I'd do a 5F6 for that rhodes.. or better , a 100W plexi!!!

I have a huge studio recording but still 100W plexi isn't too loud? Maybe a 5F6?

[Bieworm]

Naaahh.. not a twin??? I think that's about the most overrated amp ever. I let myself buy one up to 3 times.. and everytime I had one it was gone within a week. Its 80 lbs dead weight and it's very hard to cut through the mix, even if it was 100W ... boring. But that's my opinion. Somr would lynch me for saying this aloud..
I'd do a 5F6 for that rhodes.. or better , a 100W plexi!!!

I have a huge studio recording but still 100W plexi isn't too loud? Maybe a 5F6?

A 5f6 is really loud. But at least you can get some dirt out of it. A twin wouldn't sound better than a decent PA

[davemojo]

Finally added the speakers

Here a new discussion, those are Celestion G12M GreenBack 25W. Made in China. Would you agree are the same as the one UK made? I believe they are since i compared the material and the sound from a real Bluesbreaker (reissue) they sound and feel and look the same.