18 Watts amp start up issues

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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by Bieworm »

While not adviseable it shouldn't be a problem switching heater wires. The filaments aren't polarized. Look at fenders ..they use the same green wires for both sides and they are often switched from tube to tube.

And yes.. if it were me I'd try to make a fresh and clean build..slowly and detailed. And with the acquired experience go back to the first build...
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by Bieworm »

I always buy blank chassis. It's fun to start from scratch.
But if you are not equipped or into metal work it's not adviseable.
Check the chassis offerings at tubetown germany. They have lots of different types at very fair prices.
My last blank was only 17€

Which amp are you going to build? I'll help you look
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by davemojo »

Bieworm wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 10:59 am
I always buy blank chassis. It's fun to start from scratch.
But if you are not equipped or into metal work it's not adviseable.
Check the chassis offerings at tubetown germany. They have lots of different types at very fair prices.
My last blank was only 17€

Which amp are you going to build? I'll help you look
Yes must be this one you got

https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/tt-ch ... -x-65.html

What about the faceplate this is going to be all custom, drilling and cutting the metal can be done no problem on that, but the faceplate how can I put the gold Marshall style front and rear plate, can that be customized too?
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by davemojo »

Bieworm wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 10:59 am
I always buy blank chassis. It's fun to start from scratch.
But if you are not equipped or into metal work it's not adviseable.
Check the chassis offerings at tubetown germany. They have lots of different types at very fair prices.
My last blank was only 17€

Which amp are you going to build? I'll help you look
I want to build the amp based on Josh schematic
JMPGuitars_18_Watt_Lite_2b_Layout.pdf
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by Bieworm »

davemojo wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 11:07 am
Bieworm wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 10:59 am
I always buy blank chassis. It's fun to start from scratch.
But if you are not equipped or into metal work it's not adviseable.
Check the chassis offerings at tubetown germany. They have lots of different types at very fair prices.
My last blank was only 17€

Which amp are you going to build? I'll help you look
Yes must be this one you got

https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/tt-ch ... -x-65.html

What about the faceplate this is going to be all custom, drilling and cutting the metal can be done no problem on that, but the faceplate how can I put the gold Marshall style front and rear plate, can that be customized too?
Yes that was the one I used to buy. But they were like 14€ a year ago.
This is the one from my last build. I'm only buying these from now on. But I'm building bigger amps with larger circuits nowadays
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/tt-ch ... -x-65.html
This is the finished chassis
20210325_202152.jpg
You can buy custom faceplates there for like 20 -30€.. I make mine myself, but they're prototypes. I'm looking for a 3D printer with lasercut functions... but the prices..aaahhh
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by davemojo »

Bieworm wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 11:53 am
davemojo wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 11:07 am
Bieworm wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 10:59 am
I always buy blank chassis. It's fun to start from scratch.
But if you are not equipped or into metal work it's not adviseable.
Check the chassis offerings at tubetown germany. They have lots of different types at very fair prices.
My last blank was only 17€

Which amp are you going to build? I'll help you look
Yes must be this one you got

https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/tt-ch ... -x-65.html

What about the faceplate this is going to be all custom, drilling and cutting the metal can be done no problem on that, but the faceplate how can I put the gold Marshall style front and rear plate, can that be customized too?
Yes that was the one I used to buy. But they were like 14€ a year ago.
This is the one from my last build. I'm only buying these from now on. But I'm building bigger amps with larger circuits nowadays
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/tt-ch ... -x-65.html
This is the finished chassis 20210325_202152.jpg
You can buy custom faceplates there for like 20 -30€.. I make mine myself, but they're prototypes. I'm looking for a 3D printer with lasercut functions... but the prices..aaahhh
Thanks 2 questions and I leave you alone lol :lol:

1) I can't see the cutout hole for the PT on that one but in general for the holes you use the drill bit isn't? but what about the bigger cutout for example the PT has usually that nearly square hole what tool do you use for cutting that?

2) The custom plate on Tube-Town are they blank no holes which means you drill the holes accordingly but obviously there is nothing written on the plate such volume or tone, input correct? how this works, hope you get what I mean
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by Bieworm »

The transformers I use are mounted on the bottom, so there are no square holes needed. But on my imperial clone I had to cut a square hole for the classictone transformer. I drilled the 4 corners and sawed the hole a little too small.. and filed the hole nice and square.

For the specifics of them faceplates it's best to contact tube town by phone or e-mail. I'm not informed enough... maybe Google this for discussion fora on this topic?
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by JMPGuitars »

davemojo wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 10:45 am
@Josh from JMPGuitars and @Bieworm

I agree to leave this Stewmac build aside I will troubleshoot another time
I think the trouble is at V3 socket there is some **** there with soldering and messy lugs too much solder and the socket may be even ruined. However atm let's leave this behind

I can start the new build, but your Modern schematic, actually seems a lot more clean, easy to follow, easy to understand, actually even simpler over all.

Could you suggest where can I get the right chassis that best suite that build since my one seem not matching it, looks like I could still use it but I would leave some holes since your schematic is using 5 tube sockets, and the knobs are just Volume and Tone all the other knobs for volume treble bass are not needed.

Long story short I need to find the right chassis, can you help? Do I have to build it myself that would be too much :D
Bieworm can tell you where to source the chassis in your neck of the woods.

But before you build your next amp, you should troubleshoot this one for the learning process. Take a look at the photo TriodeLuvr posted. It very clearly shows that you need to watch the soldering videos, and practice soldering more before even thinking about starting another build.

I've been soldering stuff for 30 years. I still watch those videos occasionally, and I still practice. I started another thread because I recently started getting more serious about SMD soldering, and I got stuff to practice doing that. I ordered 3 more practice boards and other tools to continue practicing.

The greatest tool in your arsenal is patience. You need to be patient enough to learn and understand the proper techniques, and patient enough to practice them too.

Consider your current amp practice for the next one. Fix it up as nice as you can. Don't even worry or think about powering it up right now. Inspect every single solder joint and see what you can do to improve them. After you put the time into this one, the next one will come out great.

Thanks,
Josh
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by TriodeLuvr »

This build would be a lot easier with the right wire. It should be tinned, not bare copper. I also personally prefer solid 20 or 22 gauge for miniature sockets.

Jack
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by davemojo »

JMPGuitars wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 3:03 pm
davemojo wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 10:45 am
@Josh from JMPGuitars and @Bieworm

I agree to leave this Stewmac build aside I will troubleshoot another time
I think the trouble is at V3 socket there is some **** there with soldering and messy lugs too much solder and the socket may be even ruined. However atm let's leave this behind

I can start the new build, but your Modern schematic, actually seems a lot more clean, easy to follow, easy to understand, actually even simpler over all.

Could you suggest where can I get the right chassis that best suite that build since my one seem not matching it, looks like I could still use it but I would leave some holes since your schematic is using 5 tube sockets, and the knobs are just Volume and Tone all the other knobs for volume treble bass are not needed.

Long story short I need to find the right chassis, can you help? Do I have to build it myself that would be too much :D
Bieworm can tell you where to source the chassis in your neck of the woods.

But before you build your next amp, you should troubleshoot this one for the learning process. Take a look at the photo TriodeLuvr posted. It very clearly shows that you need to watch the soldering videos, and practice soldering more before even thinking about starting another build.

I've been soldering stuff for 30 years. I still watch those videos occasionally, and I still practice. I started another thread because I recently started getting more serious about SMD soldering, and I got stuff to practice doing that. I ordered 3 more practice boards and other tools to continue practicing.

The greatest tool in your arsenal is patience. You need to be patient enough to learn and understand the proper techniques, and patient enough to practice them too.

Consider your current amp practice for the next one. Fix it up as nice as you can. Don't even worry or think about powering it up right now. Inspect every single solder joint and see what you can do to improve them. After you put the time into this one, the next one will come out great.

Thanks,
Josh
I will definitely fix this one, I got a little discouraged . I agree on patient and will look at the soldering video again and again. I will remove few parts that I already know are not ok and restart over on those parts example is the 2 green wires but also the mess at socket V3 there is a short in there for sure.

However I will first go through the entire steps looking at the layout I got and check all the soldering.
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by JMPGuitars »

davemojo wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 3:54 pm
I will definitely fix this one, I got a little discouraged . I agree on patient and will look at the soldering video again and again. I will remove few parts that I already know are not ok and restart over on those parts example is the 2 green wires but also the mess at socket V3 there is a short in there for sure.

However I will first go through the entire steps looking at the layout I got and check all the soldering.
Jack (TriodeLuvr) is correct, you need to start with the right wire. You need pre-tinned (and preferably pre-bonded) wire. Using bare copper is a PITA, and you would still need to pre tin & bond it before soldering anything if you are going to use bare copper (which you shouldn't).

Thanks,
Josh

PS. The Lite 2b(ish) project you linked previously would be a great build for you after working through this one, and it's a great amp too.
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by davemojo »

JMPGuitars wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 6:48 pm
davemojo wrote:
Thu 04/15/21 3:54 pm
I will definitely fix this one, I got a little discouraged . I agree on patient and will look at the soldering video again and again. I will remove few parts that I already know are not ok and restart over on those parts example is the 2 green wires but also the mess at socket V3 there is a short in there for sure.

However I will first go through the entire steps looking at the layout I got and check all the soldering.
Jack (TriodeLuvr) is correct, you need to start with the right wire. You need pre-tinned (and preferably pre-bonded) wire. Using bare copper is a PITA, and you would still need to pre tin & bond it before soldering anything if you are going to use bare copper (which you shouldn't).

Thanks,
Josh

PS. The Lite 2b(ish) project you linked previously would be a great build for you after working through this one, and it's a great amp too.
Dear Josh, but one thing please, the wire seen on that photo, are the one coming from the PT bought it at Tonefactory and doesn't have any pre-tinned wire, instead the other wire I bought for the build are the right wire,

The wire i used are vintage cloth solid 18 awg green and 22 awg yellow.

I agree my soldering technique was and still is crap :-) and I should have manually tinned those PT wire,

I know many things now and I will do the correct things I am planning to restart over with the same current build fix it and clean up all mess

please see:

https://www.tonefactory.nl/vintage-soli ... 8awg-green
https://www.tonefactory.nl/vintage-soli ... awg-yellow
https://www.tonefactory.nl/vintage-pick-up-kabel
For heater wire use 18 awg green clot wire. For speaker wire:
https://www.tonefactory.nl/klotz-twinma ... abel-black
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by Bieworm »

Don't worry, you'll get there eventually.
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by JMPGuitars »

Sounds like you're on the right path now. Make sure you also add those mechanical connections.
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by TriodeLuvr »

davemojo wrote:
Fri 04/16/21 12:51 am

... the wire seen on that photo, are the one coming from the PT bought it at Tonefactory and doesn't have any pre-tinned wire, instead the other wire I bought for the build are the right wire,

The wire i used are vintage cloth solid 18 awg green and 22 awg yellow.
I'm surprised they would use un-tinned lead out wire for a transformer. Anyway, it sounds like you have the correct wire for building the amplifier.

About the soldering, I wonder if the iron you have might be too small? Beginners don't always know what equipment to use. You need at least 45-60W of heat for tube sockets and such. To tin stranded wire, it's easier if you twist the exposed copper tightly by hand, then put a little solder on the tip of the iron and touch it briefly to the end of the wire. Only tin the end, don't allow the solder to flow up the wire. Otherwise, the wire becomes too stiff to wrap around the lug.

Also, when you start soldering the joint, hold the tip on the joint and apply just a little solder at first (between the tip and joint) to create good heat transfer. Then allow the wire and lug to get hot enough to flow the solder and add a little more. It should melt quickly and flow around the lug and part way up the wire.

Josh's tutorial is good, and there are many more on YouTube showing examples of soldering. Don't get discouraged, it just takes practice.

Jack
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Re: 18 Watts amp start up issues

Post by davemojo »

TriodeLuvr wrote:
Fri 04/16/21 10:21 am
davemojo wrote:
Fri 04/16/21 12:51 am

... the wire seen on that photo, are the one coming from the PT bought it at Tonefactory and doesn't have any pre-tinned wire, instead the other wire I bought for the build are the right wire,

The wire i used are vintage cloth solid 18 awg green and 22 awg yellow.
I'm surprised they would use un-tinned lead out wire for a transformer. Anyway, it sounds like you have the correct wire for building the amplifier.

About the soldering, I wonder if the iron you have might be too small? Beginners don't always know what equipment to use. You need at least 45-60W of heat for tube sockets and such. To tin stranded wire, it's easier if you twist the exposed copper tightly by hand, then put a little solder on the tip of the iron and touch it briefly to the end of the wire. Only tin the end, don't allow the solder to flow up the wire. Otherwise, the wire becomes too stiff to wrap around the lug.

Also, when you start soldering the joint, hold the tip on the joint and apply just a little solder at first (between the tip and joint) to create good heat transfer. Then allow the wire and lug to get hot enough to flow the solder and add a little more. It should melt quickly and flow around the lug and part way up the wire.

Josh's tutorial is good, and there are many more on YouTube showing examples of soldering. Don't get discouraged, it just takes practice.

Jack
nope I am ok now was just a moment of course I am here to learn thanks for all the support.

I have restarted checking my current build, I will definitely succeed I planned to dismount pat of the build and restart over :D
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