2x10 combo

[chaliapin]

Planning the cab for my 36w so I can do something while waiting for my tube town gear to arrive to finish the circuit. I have two NOS g10s50 with metal grills which im planning to use. Also have a single eminence/ fender blue chassis alnico which I could also try.

This is supposed to be a zero spend project as I thought I had all the parts and we're drowning in unpaid bills...

I have a stack of 5 inch wide, 3/4 inch thick pine floor TnG boards and hopefully sufficient scraps of 1/2 inch ply for the back panels and floating baffle...

Chassis is 20" long. Planning on external dimensions of 24 1/2" wide, 16 1/2 inch tall, approx 8-9" deep once I've removed tongue and groove from the outside of two joined boards for tops and sides.

Am I doing anything iffy?

Id like it to be light as possible, hoping to butt joint with glue and dowels without timber inside the corners. Also planning routed holes ten inches up on each side for handles. Planning on sanding and linseed oil as I have a bottle.

Thanks all.

[Bieworm]

If you are a well enough skilled woodworker I don't see why it wouldn't be ok.
Important is to glue the joined boards with enough glue, and well pressed to each other with good equipment. Most solid boards are an assembly of glued strips after all.

[chaliapin]

Im toying with the idea of 1x10 detuned combo with the eminence/ fender blue for a super light option. Built same size as the 2x10 so I can always go 2x with a new baffle and removing back panel. Thinking of the speaker in the centre of the baffle to balance the weight, then two ports on either side roughly equal to the area of a 10 inch circle. Any thoughts? Should i make it deeper? I know the answer is to just build it and try it but I am struggling for free time at the moment so am doing more thinking than building...

Bit boxy and not very bassy is kind of fine with me but not sounding puny and crap...

[JMPGuitars]

I love detuned cabs. I'd say that's a great way to go. Make the baffle standard, and place the single 10" speaker opposite the transformers, and it should feel pretty good in hand without any extra effort.

[chaliapin]

Ok great thanks. Do I need to consider extra ventilation with a closed back cab?

[JMPGuitars]

Ok great thanks. Do I need to consider extra ventilation with a closed back cab?

I wouldn't do a closed back combo. If you do a closed back at all, you need to consider physics that affect the sound in addition to ventilation.

If you want to experiment with closed back, make it sectional, so there's a middle panel that can be removed to make it open back. Or you can do multiple middle panels to do semi open, or full open.

[chaliapin]

Ok right great, I thought detuned were always closed back.

[JMPGuitars]

Ok right great, I thought detuned were always closed back.

Nah, I do all my 2x12 open-back stacks as detuned unless otherwise requested. My personal cabs are open-back 2x12s with a single WGS Blackhawk in each.

[Bieworm]

Seriously? I'd think closed back too...
When i take the amp out of an open back'd combo (with front control) i think the sound of the combo really suffers from being open at both sides. YMMV...

[JMPGuitars]

Seriously? I'd think closed back too...
When i take the amp out of an open back'd combo (with front control) i think the sound of the combo really suffers from being open at both sides. YMMV...

That's why I recommend making a cabinet with multiple rear panels. You can test it out and see what's best, open, partially open, or closed. My 2x12 speaker cabs are open back, and I love how they sound detuned. YMMV.

[chaliapin]

Josh, what type of baffle do you use, floating? Also I have half inch ply hanging around but only 12 inch wide, think an inch clearance around each 10" speaker hole is enough?

[JMPGuitars]

Josh, what type of baffle do you use, floating? Also I have half inch ply hanging around but only 12 inch wide, think an inch clearance around each 10" speaker hole is enough?

I don't build cabs but you can ask Bieworm, he does build his cabs. My 2 cents is that it doesn't necessarily matter about the clearance if you make up the volume another way. Aesthetics and stability are another story.

[chaliapin]

Ah ok no worries thanks, the box itself will be taller but will have a panel above the baffle.

[chaliapin]

Thinking front loading speakers on the baffle unless it's too bright with 18/36watt?

[Bieworm]

when you take a look at the 5F4 tweed super, you'll notice the 10" speakers are squeezed in too. So it's not a problem.. I did that too before. No issues.
Is your combo with the amp controls on top or on the front? When on top you can screw/glue a 1x1 inch frame inside the combo to mount the baffle.
When on the front it usually is sufficient to mount a U-shaped 1by1 inch frame with the top side open. In that case it's good practice to fix a 1by1 inch wooden beam on the baffle itself to prevent the baffle from bending...
But you have to take that in account when polulating the amp chassis, so the components have enough clearance for that beam.

https://guitar.com/review/vintage-bench ... der-super/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303388205801

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