2x10 combo

[chaliapin]

Brilliant thanks, controls on top but I think I'll attach the baffle in a U shape as you suggest and have a second panel to fill the gap. I'll have to have a frame or something removable for the grill if I'm front mounting the speaker(s)

[chaliapin]

This is coming together in my mind although not much timber cut... my blue frame eminence/ fender is paper cone and rated at 20 or 25w. So not going to cut it with the 36 watter. What do we think of a single g10s50 in the detuned cab?

[Bieworm]

This is coming together in my mind although not much timber cut... my blue frame eminence/ fender is paper cone and rated at 20 or 25w. So not going to cut it with the 36 watter. What do we think of a single g10s50 in the detuned cab?

The 1028 emi is a really great speaker, but indeed not qualified for your 36W. A gold alnico will be awesome too… but any 50 to 60 watt celestion vintage series will do

[JMPGuitars]

My favorite speaker is the WGS Blackhawk, but that's only 12". If I was going to do a 10" detuned cab, I'd try out the WGS 10” G10A (75 watts).

[chaliapin]

This is coming together in my mind although not much timber cut... my blue frame eminence/ fender is paper cone and rated at 20 or 25w. So not going to cut it with the 36 watter. What do we think of a single g10s50 in the detuned cab?

The 1028 emi is a really great speaker, but indeed not qualified for your 36W. A gold alnico will be awesome too… but any 50 to 60 watt celestion vintage series will do

Thanks, I dunno about vintage series, my g10s50 are nos made in England I assume you're giving it the thumbs up?

[Daviedawg]

Watched this video and recalled this conversation. Interest is that Marshall created an oversize ported 1x12 for the lead and bass 20. But little is known about it.

Dd
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVbvS85MyO0

PS You get an internal of cab and amp later in the video

[chaliapin]

https://www.ampmaker.com/speaker-lead-and-bass-1x12/

There's a copy of it. It's big isn't it!

[Graydon]

I agree with Josh above - WGS makes some great drivers. I'd try their 10" offerings.
I used a pair of Celestion 10s that had been tweaked and branded by Matchless for my first 18w clone. They still sound great these many years later.
In my little 1-10 combo I used a Jensen 10" Mod speaker. They were super cheap and they offered two versions so I got one of each and tried them both. They both sounded good but one had better bottom end. I built the 1-10 combo cabinet to be as resonant as possible and it worked. That little 1-10 is a monster. It is loud, aggressive and has a pretty good bottom end for such a small box and speaker. I would not hesitate to use this little 1-10 18W combo on a gig.

[chaliapin]

Thanks graydon,

What were your considerations for making it as resonant as possible?

[Graydon]

I did a few things.

1. The chassis has an angled front panel and the speaker baffle is attached directly to the chassis at the top. It attaches to the cabinet at the bottom and in between on the sides, there is no support in the middle. The baffle is free to vibrate much like a tweed Fender baffle. Being attached to the chassis provides a direct path for mechanical feedback.
2. The baffle is made from 1/4" plywood so its fairly light and flexible
3. The rest of the cabinet is made from 1/2" solid pine so it also is very light and resonant.
4. There is no tolex to damp it - just raw wood finish, stained black.

[JMPGuitars]

I did a few things.

1. The chassis has an angled front panel and the speaker baffle is attached directly to the chassis at the top. It attaches to the cabinet at the bottom and in between on the sides, there is no support in the middle. The baffle is free to vibrate much like a tweed Fender baffle. Being attached to the chassis provides a direct path for mechanical feedback.
2. The baffle is made from 1/4" plywood so its fairly light and flexible
3. The rest of the cabinet is made from 1/2" solid pine so it also is very light and resonant.
4. There is no tolex to damp it - just raw wood finish, stained black.

geez, casually dropping F-bombs like that...

[chaliapin]

I did a few things.

1. The chassis has an angled front panel and the speaker baffle is attached directly to the chassis at the top. It attaches to the cabinet at the bottom and in between on the sides, there is no support in the middle. The baffle is free to vibrate much like a tweed Fender baffle. Being attached to the chassis provides a direct path for mechanical feedback.
2. The baffle is made from 1/4" plywood so its fairly light and flexible
3. The rest of the cabinet is made from 1/2" solid pine so it also is very light and resonant.
4. There is no tolex to damp it - just raw wood finish, stained black.

Great info thanks

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