Crazy idea.. how to make a Matchless-style glowing faceplate

jas · Post by **jas** » Mon 02/13/06 5:03 pm

I've been planning on doing this on my amp once I get that far with it, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. The "original" idea I have is similar - painted plexi with transparent letters, but I'm going to try drilling holes in the sides an cementing an LED or two in. Ok, I pulled the idea from a set of lights at Ikea where they do exactly the same thing. Wonder if they're in danger of being sued by Matchless???

Joe

jersey_aaron · Post by **jersey_aaron** » Mon 02/13/06 5:36 pm

Actually, Ampeg did have a glowing faceplate (Not the B-15), it used EL to light up the panel:

http://www.slyrose.com/bt15.htm

Ampeg just doesn't get the respect it deserves. They had better clean, and better reverbs than Fenders, yet they are still largely ignored.

Gauge · Post by **Gauge** » Mon 02/13/06 5:49 pm

just putting this out there, but instead of a plastic faceplate in black and engraved from the rear in creme or some other semi-transparent color, why couldn;'t i print out a transparency and mount it to a piece of clear plexi glass (printing in black with the letters in creme or white or whatever

RWood · Post by **RWood** » Mon 02/13/06 6:14 pm

Here's how Ampeg did it. I've posted this before:

Pretty simple but very effective. As was pointed out earlier, the engraving is probably the hardest part. The two bayonette - mount lamps under the bottom edge are connected to the 6.3VAC, same as the heaters. No other pilot lights, although their use of a tube cage allows you to see the glass inside.
Yeah, Linden NJ was putting out good product in '66!

RWood

SonnyReVerb · Post by **SonnyReVerb** » Mon 02/13/06 6:51 pm

Bad Cat has light up faceplates. I saw Bonnie Raitt using one in concert. It looked pretty cool on a darkened stage. Their lineage does trace back to Matchless, I believe.

Here's a copy of a post I made over at Hoffman's forum on the same topic:

Paul Ruby did a nice lighted faceplate for a JTM45. Here's a link to the thread over at AX84:

http://ax84.com/bbs/dm2.php?id=190723

Check out the first post by Paul Ruby to see the links to pix of his amp.

Sonny

marshman · Post by **marshman** » Mon 02/13/06 7:13 pm

So there's this guy, 'newbie' member here (longer than I, but hey, I digress) goes by JoeV, and has a company that will custom make you any faceplate you wish...

www.amplates.com

He's probably the guy to talk to for any of us. If he can do anodized aluminum, reverse-engraved plexi and custom grillecloth, he's seems a good place to start.

52ftbuddha · Post by **52ftbuddha** » Mon 02/13/06 7:36 pm

I hope this works
Rob

52ftbuddha · Post by **52ftbuddha** » Mon 02/13/06 7:39 pm

JKL 47

Gauge · Post by **Gauge** » Mon 02/13/06 7:40 pm

that's backlite, right? - i think the paul ruby way is to line the top of the chassis (directly on top of the edge of the faceplate with lights)
your way seems to gaurantee a brighter display
would those bulbs introduce any unwanted noise, to the signal path or by virtue of their presence in the chassis
Looks like really clean work there

52ftbuddha · Post by **52ftbuddha** » Mon 02/13/06 7:42 pm

The lamps do not add any noise, Thanks for the kind words.

Rob

Gauge · Post by **Gauge** » Mon 02/13/06 7:45 pm

did you dremel out those eliptical ports in the chassis or did you order it that way from somewhere

52ftbuddha · Post by **52ftbuddha** » Mon 02/13/06 7:49 pm

I used a drill press a chassis nibler and files. The nibler is the best chassis tool going.
Rob

tubetwang · Post by **tubetwang** » Tue 02/14/06 11:36 am

Ampeg are bad to work on...

Rat's nest.

Do-es-nt help much for the recognition...

They do clean and reverb great but...

lagerdog · Post by **lagerdog** » Tue 02/14/06 12:12 pm

just putting this out there, but instead of a plastic faceplate in black and engraved from the rear in creme or some other semi-transparent color, why couldn;'t i print out a transparency and mount it to a piece of clear plexi glass (printing in black with the letters in creme or white or whatever

You'll never get there that way... you can't block enough light with the ink... Worked for years in the control panel lighting industry, and the only way for appliques or rubber is to have a barrier coat of white down under the black or whatever color you are trying to use. And it should be thick and opaque... A laser printer won't do it...

markd · Post by **markd** » Tue 02/14/06 12:21 pm

I'm working with Jeanne at BNP on a backlit faceplate. Sort of like Paul Ruby's, with the 1/8" plexi like you would see the lettering etched into a colored pastic layer at the back. Only with the colored layer on the front with the lettering etched through. And with 2mm led's mounted into the edge of the plexi instead of the incandesent bulbs Paul used. Hope it looks as good as his.
mdurham

Gauge · Post by **Gauge** » Tue 02/14/06 12:45 pm

hmm - so my transparency in front of the plexiglass with black and creme lettering - you're saying the black won't block the light from comming through - what if it was 2 transparencies thick - or is plastic the only way to go

would it matter if it was backlit versus lit from the edge

JoeV · Post by **JoeV** » Tue 02/14/06 4:39 pm

If you're doing a backlit plate, you should do a reverse engraved plastic plate without the text backfill (leave the lettering clear). It would look killer.

I can do this for you. Go to my site (www.amplates.com) for more info.

Thanks!

Dynaflow_Donnie · Post by **Dynaflow_Donnie** » Wed 02/15/06 1:00 am

Of course its cheesy. Thats the point.. haha... Course I like hula girl grill cloth too...

Regards,

Dyna

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Crazy idea.. how to make a Matchless-style glowing faceplate

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