Head cabinet for 36w
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- RogerN
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Head cabinet for 36w
Thanks to everyone who participates in this forum. I have learned an incredible amount here. It has really helped.
I will be ordering the 36w EF86 TMB from Nik at Ceriatone tomorrow. While I am waiting the 4 weeks for delivery, I am going to attempt to build a cabinet for it. I have been a woodworker most of my life and I am going to build the cabinet out of solid hardwood - with no tolex covering.
I have downloaded the plans for the 18/36w head cabinet provided by 'Bulatovic' (many thanks by the way), and I have converted the metric measurements to inches, but I have a question.
I really want to keep the width of this cabinet under 24". Nik says the width of the 18/36w chassis is 20" (21.5" including flanges), and there appears to be about 25" of interior width in the cabinet.
My question is, is it possible to decrease the interior width of the cabinet to about 22" (leaving 1/2" clearance for the chassis), and then leave a gap between the bottom of the front and rear panel attachment cleats and the interior bottom of the cabinet so that the flanges can slide in under the cleats?
Any and all help would be appreciated.
I will be ordering the 36w EF86 TMB from Nik at Ceriatone tomorrow. While I am waiting the 4 weeks for delivery, I am going to attempt to build a cabinet for it. I have been a woodworker most of my life and I am going to build the cabinet out of solid hardwood - with no tolex covering.
I have downloaded the plans for the 18/36w head cabinet provided by 'Bulatovic' (many thanks by the way), and I have converted the metric measurements to inches, but I have a question.
I really want to keep the width of this cabinet under 24". Nik says the width of the 18/36w chassis is 20" (21.5" including flanges), and there appears to be about 25" of interior width in the cabinet.
My question is, is it possible to decrease the interior width of the cabinet to about 22" (leaving 1/2" clearance for the chassis), and then leave a gap between the bottom of the front and rear panel attachment cleats and the interior bottom of the cabinet so that the flanges can slide in under the cleats?
Any and all help would be appreciated.
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- martinw
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sub
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Re: Head cabinet for 36w
Are you sure the chassis width is 20"RogerN wrote:Thanks to everyone who participates in this forum. I have learned an incredible amount here. It has really helped.
I will be ordering the 36w EF86 TMB from Nik at Ceriatone tomorrow. While I am waiting the 4 weeks for delivery, I am going to attempt to build a cabinet for it. I have been a woodworker most of my life and I am going to build the cabinet out of solid hardwood - with no tolex covering.
I have downloaded the plans for the 18/36w head cabinet provided by 'Bulatovic' (many thanks by the way), and I have converted the metric measurements to inches, but I have a question.
I really want to keep the width of this cabinet under 24". Nik says the width of the 18/36w chassis is 20" (21.5" including flanges), and there appears to be about 25" of interior width in the cabinet.
My question is, is it possible to decrease the interior width of the cabinet to about 22" (leaving 1/2" clearance for the chassis), and then leave a gap between the bottom of the front and rear panel attachment cleats and the interior bottom of the cabinet so that the flanges can slide in under the cleats?
Any and all help would be appreciated.
My 18w trem chassis is 430mm (~17") and my 1987x chassis is similar size.........
Why Nik's chassis such a "big"?
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- user669
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Hey RodgerN
How thick is the wood your using? If you get your wood down to 1/2" you can get close.
21.5" + 1" (wood thickness at 1/2") =22.5" but you will want to add another 1/4" to that becasue your going to have problems sliding the chassis in so you would be safe at 22.75"
You will want to make your cleats at about 5/8" if the flanges are 3/4"
These mesuments are cutting it real close and you might end up shaving anouther 1/16" off the first 2.5" of the side of the cleat to fit the chassis.
I have one of Nik's 36 watt chassis here and It is long!
How thick is the wood your using? If you get your wood down to 1/2" you can get close.
21.5" + 1" (wood thickness at 1/2") =22.5" but you will want to add another 1/4" to that becasue your going to have problems sliding the chassis in so you would be safe at 22.75"
You will want to make your cleats at about 5/8" if the flanges are 3/4"
These mesuments are cutting it real close and you might end up shaving anouther 1/16" off the first 2.5" of the side of the cleat to fit the chassis.
I have one of Nik's 36 watt chassis here and It is long!
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Mike
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jaysg
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Re: Head cabinet for 36w
I have a blank 17" and I'm about to build a 36W, it's not enough room!sub wrote:
Are you sure the chassis width is 20"![]()
My 18w trem chassis is 430mm (~17") and my 1987x chassis is similar size.........
Why Nik's chassis such a "big"?
4 EL84s + 3 12AX7s + 1 cap can + 2 transformers + 1 rectifier tube AND if you are building the EF86 + 1 EF86.
I was going to get real creative on it, but decided that I'd just order the chassis from Nik for mine. I'll save the 17 incher for something smaller like a 50W plexi!
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Deadwood
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Re: Head cabinet for 36w
.[/quote]
Are you sure the chassis width is 20"
My 18w trem chassis is 430mm (~17") and my 1987x chassis is similar size.........
Why Nik's chassis such a "big"?[/quote]
I have Nik's 36er, 20'' exactly.
Are you sure the chassis width is 20"
My 18w trem chassis is 430mm (~17") and my 1987x chassis is similar size.........
Why Nik's chassis such a "big"?[/quote]
I have Nik's 36er, 20'' exactly.
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Plexi
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sub
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Re: Head cabinet for 36w
Ah... now i see! Thank you very much!BBQLS1 wrote:I have a blank 17" and I'm about to build a 36W, it's not enough room!sub wrote:
Are you sure the chassis width is 20"![]()
My 18w trem chassis is 430mm (~17") and my 1987x chassis is similar size.........
Why Nik's chassis such a "big"?
4 EL84s + 3 12AX7s + 1 cap can + 2 transformers + 1 rectifier tube AND if you are building the EF86 + 1 EF86.
I was going to get real creative on it, but decided that I'd just order the chassis from Nik for mine. I'll save the 17 incher for something smaller like a 50W plexi!
Good info. I will build a 36 watt (lil' bit later)
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- andyo64
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Head Cab 18/36 Watt
I'm also getting started with my 1st 18watt - where do I find the plans to build the head like the one your talking about? Is there a link?
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- RogerN
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36w head cabinet
I think you should be able to just do a search for 'Bulatovic' and find the plans. If all else fails, post again with your email address and I'll email them to you. (I tried to attach them but it won't allow a bitmap to be attached).
By the way, does anyone know where I can get a grill (preferably in gold) to put on the top of my cabinet? I'm going to put the regular grill in the back panel, but I figure the more air the better.
And, do I need to pkace the handle in any particular location in order to make the amp balanced when it is being carried?
By the way, does anyone know where I can get a grill (preferably in gold) to put on the top of my cabinet? I'm going to put the regular grill in the back panel, but I figure the more air the better.
And, do I need to pkace the handle in any particular location in order to make the amp balanced when it is being carried?
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JohnnyCrash
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I also used a Mojo cab with my 36w - which is a Ceriatone chassis+faceplate. Mojo cabs are very good work - especially for the price.
I have all kinds of other amps, and I build my own cabs for them all - unlike you, I am NOT a woodworker (I got a D in woodshop and I currently have limited tools/saws).
From experience (I've built about 8 or 9 cabs thusfar) as long as you have enough space to get your hands in there to mount the flange nuts, you're fine. The front panel is where care is needed (and the rear is rarely seen).
I have all kinds of other amps, and I build my own cabs for them all - unlike you, I am NOT a woodworker (I got a D in woodshop and I currently have limited tools/saws).
From experience (I've built about 8 or 9 cabs thusfar) as long as you have enough space to get your hands in there to mount the flange nuts, you're fine. The front panel is where care is needed (and the rear is rarely seen).
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- tarzanalog
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- 7enderman
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- rickdog
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I have built 20" 22" 24" even 27" chassis for higher wattage amps. 20" works great for 36W. I put 8 sockets along the back, 3 pre, 4 pwr, and 1 for an octal rectifier. The 20" has room for a cap board so you don't need to use a cap can if you don't want to. You can bend the mount tabs inward to keep the width down, otherwise figure another 1" to 1.5" length for the mount tabs outward (easier to install and work with).
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