Crazy idea.. how to make a Matchless-style glowing faceplate

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lagerdog
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Post by lagerdog »

What about using clear plexi, and go to a sign shop and have your 'block' made in thick white sign vinyl with a black vinyl cover over that?

Pete
Probably should work...

OK, here's the scoop... the white is usually fairly opaque, and reflects alot of interior light around... The black (or whatever color you want) is put over it as your external finish look. Remember, what you want it to block the light...The only problem with using tranparencies is that the ink is WAY too thin and will look gray, or really be hotspotty and show where the light is. What you want is to spread the light out equally to illuminate things. That is why, with a lightpipe system, that you can etch into a piece of acrylic or PC, and light the side of the piece with a few LEDs or lamps, and the light that hits the engraving reflects the light allowing it to seem to glow. It is always hard to light the back of something and not have distinct light areas, like in the picture above. If you were trying to glow the text evenly, there are better ways of doing it. Maybe a piece of acrylic that has been sanded/blasted before the text to act as a diffuser... It can get pretty elaborate... At least LEDs don't have the heat of an incandescent bulb!!!
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curtg
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Post by curtg »

Hey, I know this is a bit late, but I did this on a custom 18 watt build. It might spur some ideas.

Paul Ruby was a big help getting me started. I designed my faceplate in Corel Draw, and sent to Jeannie at BNP Lasers. Rear etched panel with the Dragonfly logo transparent. I did the chassis cutout with a drill and a Dremel (the hardest part), and back lit it with 2 LEDs, a 2mm red one, and a 3mm blue one, both fed through current-limiting resistors tied to EL84 cathode.

Here's a photo.

Image
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Chubsman
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Post by Chubsman »

WOW... What value resistors did you use for the current limiting resistors...
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morcey2
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Post by morcey2 »

curtg wrote:Hey, I know this is a bit late, but I did this on a custom 18 watt build. It might spur some ideas.

Paul Ruby was a big help getting me started. I designed my faceplate in Corel Draw, and sent to Jeannie at BNP Lasers. Rear etched panel with the Dragonfly logo transparent. I did the chassis cutout with a drill and a Dremel (the hardest part), and back lit it with 2 LEDs, a 2mm red one, and a 3mm blue one, both fed through current-limiting resistors tied to EL84 cathode.

Here's a photo.
That is one of the coolest things I think I've ever seen! That's awesome.

Matt
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rjgtr
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Post by rjgtr »

That dragonfly looks great! Do you have a pic of the entire faceplate so that we can see it in context?
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Chubsman
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Post by Chubsman »

BTW... how Matchless themselves make the faceplates.
http://matchlessamplifiers.com/tour.php ... ur&numbr=6
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curtg
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Post by curtg »

Thanks, very much appreciated! Sorry for the delay in getting back to this post.

The resistor for the blue LED is 1.5k and I can't recall the value for the red one. It's on my schematic at home. Probably somewhere between 1-2k

Here's a photo of the faceplate on the original amp. I've since changed the trim on the metal grill to flat, 2.5 mm aluminum strips to better match, and changed the screws to what I call "gun metal finish" which is actually called "antique brass."

Image

BTW, thanks for posting the link to the Matchless tour. That's inspiring!
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ricardorx
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Re: Crazy idea.. how to make a Matchless-style glowing facep

Post by ricardorx »

alguem chegou a executar o painel luminoso para o marshall?
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zaphod_phil
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Re: Crazy idea.. how to make a Matchless-style glowing facep

Post by zaphod_phil »

Using Google Translate I worked out that the question was in Portugese, and says something along the lines of, "anybody done a light panel for marshall?"

Anyone want to comment?
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KenMoon
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Re: Crazy idea.. how to make a Matchless-style glowing facep

Post by KenMoon »

Here's how Paul Ruby did it on his Miriam amp:
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