what kinada of glue

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menger
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what kinada of glue

Post by menger »

What kind of glue do i need? im using fleather fake black fleather. i think its for furniture repair anyways the guys got a whole roll of it i can get cheap if it works out t thanks mark
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CurtissRobin
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Post by CurtissRobin »

There've been a few discussions here about glues for covering. Some searching is in order. I've been using Tolex Glue catalog number S-F316 from Antique Electronic Supply tubesandmore.com about $18/quart plus shipping. It works well for me. Cleanup is soap (definitely soap) and water and I get the best result using a good quality 2" brush.

KennyO
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kd
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Post by kd »

I've used the glue that is specific for tolex and it works well and is water based. The stuff I bought is sold by the gallon, so if you don't have a lot of tolexing to do it will probably ruin before you use all of it. At over $30 dollars a gallon it isn't cheap. Lately I've been using the water based DAP, it comes in a green can. No bad smell, won't cause your tolex to stretch and you can find it in your local hardware stores. You can get it in smaller containers and it is a lot cheaper than tolex glue. It looks and works the same as the glue specified for tolex.

Ken
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jhaas
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Post by jhaas »

Have you guys using water-based products been using them a while?

I used the product from AES on a few pieces and found the vinyl lifting off in a few places after a few months. Specifically on the rear of the cab where the vinyl wraps around the battens. I've had those edges lift off on a few occasions, but the big flat surfaces seem to be holding up fine.

The water based products require a longer drying time before you can apply the vinyl to the wood. That coupled with the performance issues caused me to go back to the old reliable Dap Weldwood Contact Cement in the red can.

The fumes are toxic, so I do it outside, weather permitting, or in a well ventilated area with a respirator. I use the cheap $1 2" brushes and soak 'em in mineral spirits b/w applications. When the cab is done, I toss the brush.
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jaysg
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Post by jaysg »

My last three tolex jobs were done with the white stuff. Overlaps and corners are coming up now. I asked elsewhere and was told that you need to maintain pressure on any area that might kick up later, then it works fine. My best experience is with the gel style DAP contact cement...stinks though.
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zaphod_phil
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Post by zaphod_phil »

No water-based glues for me. And I generally try to avoid doing any tolex work anyway. Life is too short for that IMO. :) So if I'm doing any tolex repairs, I prefer to use glue with a nice powerful solvent, so I can get high while I'm working. :lol:
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menger
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Post by menger »

well zap it sure would be nice to have one amp in a box. i built the thing its not half bad i got the covering iv had a few responses and iv decided to try cove base adheasive it says it works on wood and vynal, besides that i always carry a fresh tube of nos airplane glue and line my sleave with it in case i want to see the world in wierd trippy colors :P the 35 cent tube is my fav hard year to find though mark
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kd
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Post by kd »

A few years back, when we built our house, I couldn't help but notice that the happiest guys on the site were the painters and the guys that install the counter tops.

Ken
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