Anyone using Hide Glue?

[tubelovin]

Does anyone prefer this method over the water based stuff? Would it need to be applied to the tolex and cabinet or just one?

I tried the AES stuff and it's OK but I had some lifting and I don't care for the stickness I get all over the place after I accidentaly touch it.

Thanks

[Deadwood]

I'm not sure if you've done any tolexing but I remember when I was about to do my first, I just didn't want to use contact glue, don't ask me why, I don't know. Anyway, my advice is to use contact glue, you can thin it with all purpose thinners or even better, MEK, ( methol ethol keytone )then it's nice and thin, put it on the tolex first, then the wood, keep it thin when putting it on the tolex and you won't get bubbles, give the stuff time to get tacky, don't rush and you'll be right. Just do it outside. It really is the best way to go. Good luck.

[paulschnettler]

I've had the best success with Weldwood Contact Cement. Regular old solvent based stuff. It's toluene based I think but allows you a little latitude with placement. All the others have their drawbacks, this has the solvent odor problem, but it just works the best over time IMHO.

[tubelovin]

I've done some tolexing using the water based stuff, which doesn't have those nasty fumes. I want to stay away from any type of fumes and be able to do it indoor.

I already have the glue, I just don't know the ins and outs of using it. I don't want to have to peel the tolex off if I mess it up.

Anyone know if you have to apply it to the cab and tolex?

[WaZaK]

Anyone know

I searched "apply tolex" and about 30 useful threads came up.

[Shrapnel]

This is what I've heard, as I haven't had the need to build a cab in the past. (Jalopy amp conversions.)

Hide glue requires heat and has a short time to adjust. (Don't need a $200+ heater for it either, LOL just go to The Salvation Army and find an old electric skillet. Test and make sure it can hold a temp at the recommended temp.)

Hide glue can be undone with heat and steam/moisture, and then redone without the need to clean off the old glue (other than maybe for smoothness.)

Hide Glue is smelly, and best to use the recipe on the package. When dry, it's a HARD glue.

References:
http://music-electronics-forum.com/t13499/
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/2005/hideglue.shtml

[leslie]

I wouldn't use hide glue with tolex or leather because it's made of animal skin or bones and therefore in high humidity it can attract various funghi and bacteria which would be funky scenery

[tubelovin]

I think the fungus might add to the vintage aperance.

I know my Fender used Hide glue and there hasn't been any problems with that one in 30+ years. Thanks for those links BTW, I'll check those out. I tried the search function and didn't get much in the way of using Hide glue specificaly.

I just want to try some diferent approaches to see what I like best. I don't know if there is any validity to the argument for it drying hard and giving a better tone in speaker cabs, but it makes sense.

[leslie]

I think the fungus might add to the vintage aperance.

I know my Fender used Hide glue...

LoL

That's quite a news for me
I allways thought that 70's mender and farshall used shoemakers glue.

[Travst]

I've had great success with Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue. It comes in a plastic bottle, no heating required. It takes a good while to tack up and allows plenty of time for re-positioning of the material.

[StarGeezers]

Knox gelatin works too ... Cheap !!!
We tried Titebond 2 on a few cabs (Tweed)... worked well, no fumes , and a more relaxed open time ... Waterproof unlike the hide glue ..