My first build Jim 5watt V2.0

[Tomten]

Take a look in our downloads section for some well-tested options.

Yeah.. seem to be a few cool amps there, i am sorry to say that as a beginner i am no way near to just build an amp out of a layout or a schematic only, i would need a parts list including what PT and OT and if choke is used or not, and exactly what resistors and capacitors to get.

I really wish i could just look at a schematic and figure things out by my own, but i can't. This is the only thing that is a problem, if not i would have built several amps a long long time ago. Thats why a kit is great for me to start off with , or something that has clearly instructions about all i need so i can source the parts and get started..

[JMPGuitars]

Look at my docs for the Lite 2b(ish): viewtopic.php?t=24431

My layout is drawn to scale. You can get a complete kit version of it from GDSAmps.com, but it's not 100% the same (which is fine).

Most of the amps on this site will work with standard Marshall 18W (or 36W) transformer sets. I'm sure Bieworm could link you to the right transformers if you're ordering in Europe somewhere.

Besides that, 1W resistors except where noted. I use CMF series metal film resistors. It's really not that hard to source the parts, especially if starting with a simpler circuit like the Lite 2b series.

Thanks,
Josh

[TriodeLuvr]

Don't give up. I actually built your circuit with these values in a simulator the other day before making these suggestions. It's too late this evening, but I'll take a second look tomorrow to see if there's anything I overlooked. One thing - are you driving this direct from a guitar? No preamp or anything like that, right? Two 12AX7s in cascade should not create blocking distortion, but they might if the input signal is way too big.

Jack

[Tomten]

Don't give up. I actually built your circuit with these values in a simulator the other day before making these suggestions. It's too late this evening, but I'll take a second look tomorrow to see if there's anything I overlooked. One thing - are you driving this direct from a guitar? No preamp or anything like that, right? Two 12AX7s in cascade should not create blocking distortion, but they might if the input signal is way too big.

Jack

Thanks very much I use just the guitar, no pedals at all, my plan with my build was to not have any pedals, i have a great pedal I've been using for some years now that i like very much but i want to see if its possible to have a small amp with no pedals but still a good amount of tight distortion...

[Tomten]

Look at my docs for the Lite 2b(ish)

Maybe someone have built this and have a video online ? like a demo or something like that ? It would be interesting to hear the distortion in this amp...

[JMPGuitars]

Look at my docs for the Lite 2b(ish)

Maybe someone have built this and have a video online ? like a demo or something like that ? It would be interesting to hear the distortion in this amp...

A TON of people have built it. Probably hundreds. The Lite 2b is the same as channel 1 on the standard 18W, but with a better tone knob.

Another option, which is very similar in difficulty level (easy), is the EF86 Lite. That will give you a little more distortion, with a little bit of the Vox sound meshed with the Marshall sound.
Here's a demo of an EF86 Lite I made for somebody: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj0RL4XVv6A

Thanks,
Josh

[Tomten]

I don't think I am very interested in that particular amp, it seem to simple, I would want mids and treble and bass, as well as possible a gain and/or volume and master volume. But thanks for the advice..

After all, I was originally going to build a SLO 50 or 100, I have the PCB´s for it but I find it to expensive to build right now, and I feel like those 5-10 watt amps are a lot cheaper to build. 150-200 Euros or so. Even thought the SLO have a massive amount of gain I don't want to spend the money to build it, I can get an original JCM 800 for the same price as the build cost of a SLO clone, yeah I know, the SLO costs 3-4000 Euros and should not be compared to a JCM 800, but still the JCM 800 is a great amp..

[Tomten]

I was thinking if this amp and schematic are better designed for gain then the Jim schematics ? If so, i might just go ahead and build that instead of messing around with the Jim..

[Tomten]

So I recommend using a 470k value for the grid stopper R15, instead of 220k and likewise inserting a 470k grid stopper on V2a. I also recommend changing cathode resistor R13 to 620 ohms, to bias that stage warmer, for a thicker and less fizzy overdrive sound
Also to balance the overall frequency response for guitar,
I suggest changing C2 and c16 to 1uF, with C10 and C12 = 10nf or 22nF (you decide which sounds best to you )

As I am a beginner at this.. I have no clue where this is, I mean I know where V2a is but not where I am suppose to put that 470k resistor ?

[JMPGuitars]

I don't think I am very interested in that particular amp, it seem to simple, I would want mids and treble and bass, as well as possible a gain and/or volume and master volume. But thanks for the advice..

In that case, the best amp build for you would be the SuperLite TMB: viewtopic.php?t=24430

Thanks,
Josh

[TriodeLuvr]

OK, I took a second look at the circuit operation. I don't see indications of blocking, but I think the front end should be cooled off a little bit. You can do that by first replacing C4 in the schematic below with a 470KΩ resistor. C4 actually isn't needed, because coupling cap C3 blocks DC from the previous stage. This change will reduce front end gain by 6dB. Also, leave the 1.5K at the cathode of V2A, but remove the 10uF cap that I suggested earlier. Finally, cathode follower V1B will be more "robust" if R7 is changed to 220Ω. Do this last, it might not be necessary.

This is all part of tweaking a new circuit. My goal here was to provide a means of increasing front end gain. I think you be pleased with this once the values are dialed in.

Jack

[Tomten]

OK, I took a second look at the circuit operation. I don't see indications of blocking, but I think the front end should be cooled off a little bit. You can do that by first replacing C4 in the schematic below with a 470KΩ resistor. C4 actually isn't needed, because coupling cap C3 blocks DC from the previous stage. This change will reduce front end gain by 6dB. Also, leave the 1.5K at the cathode of V2A, but remove the 10uF cap that I suggested earlier. Finally, cathode follower V1B will be more "robust" if R7 is changed to 220Ω. Do this last, it might not be necessary.

This is all part of tweaking a new circuit. My goal here was to provide a means of increasing front end gain. I think you be pleased with this once the values are dialed in.

Jack

Thank you very much, i will try this.. I am thankful that you took the time to have a second look.. maybe this would be more simple with point to point board instead of a PCB ?

[Tomten]

I don't think I am very interested in that particular amp, it seem to simple, I would want mids and treble and bass, as well as possible a gain and/or volume and master volume. But thanks for the advice..

In that case, the best amp build for you would be the SuperLite TMB: viewtopic.php?t=24430

Thanks,
Josh

This seem interesting, what Hammond PT and OT can I get for this project here in Europe ?

[JMPGuitars]

I don't think I am very interested in that particular amp, it seem to simple, I would want mids and treble and bass, as well as possible a gain and/or volume and master volume. But thanks for the advice..

In that case, the best amp build for you would be the SuperLite TMB: viewtopic.php?t=24430

Thanks,
Josh

This seem interesting, what Hammond PT and OT can I get for this project here in Europe ?

https://www.hammfg.com/electronics/tran ... watt-combo

[TriodeLuvr]

maybe this would be more simple with point to point board instead of a PCB ?

I'm not sure in this case. The changes are actually pretty minor. The main thing is to be as careful as possible not to damage the board.

Jack

[Tomten]

https://www.hammfg.com/electronics/tran ... watt-combo

Are those suitable for not just combos but also heads ? because I don't like combos at all..

[JMPGuitars]

https://www.hammfg.com/electronics/tran ... watt-combo

Are those suitable for not just combos but also heads ? because I don't like combos at all..

From an electrical point of view, what's the difference?

Thanks,
Josh

[Tomten]

From an electrical point of view, what's the difference?

Thanks,
Josh

There would be no difference, I mean if its harder to get chassis for heads to fit a PT made for Combo..

[JMPGuitars]

From an electrical point of view, what's the difference?

Thanks,
Josh

There would be no difference, I mean if its harder to get chassis for heads to fit a PT made for Combo..

Nah, there's no difference. If the mounting is standard, it's standard (the "18 watt" standard is common). You can look at the docs for the transformers to see what the mounting points/dimensions look like.

Thanks,
Josh

[Tomten]

I will try to make a BOM list for this SuperLite amp and see how much it will cost to build and where to source most of the components.