A newbie Soldering Tube Sockets (oh no!)

[DTBphan]

I am currently (trying to) solder the tube sockets and in the meantime getting slightly discouraged. I am looking for some tips on doing such, it was a little frustrating. At this time, i only have the first wire installed from Va pin 4 to Vb pin 4 and from Va pin 5 to Vb pin 5.

First, how do you accomplish soldering two wires to the prongs (e.g. the 4th tab is soldered 2 times, one going to the next valve and one going to the previous valve), do you place one on the front and one on the back? Do you place one on, heat the solder and push the second one in there? Does it make a conection at all if there is solder between the two wires? Each time i manage to be able to stablize the wires, sodler, solder iron long enough to actually solder, the solder from the other wire connected pops loose as its connection heats up simultaneously.

If you place one wire on the front and one on the back, how do you get enough room to solder with all the tabs being in a circle in a tight space like that? Do you mount the sockets to the outside first and then move them into the chasis similar to the input jacks?

If you just solder and you see that the solder itself from the joint at pin 4 might be touching pin 5 what is a safe way to remove it keeping in mind the tube socket is fragile? Or does it matter that the solder might be touching the other pin?

Thanks, i appreciate it!

DTBphan

[markd]

I am currently (trying to) solder the tube sockets and in the meantime getting slightly discouraged. I am looking for some tips on doing such, it was a little frustrating. At this time, i only have the first wire installed from Va pin 4 to Vb pin 4 and from Va pin 5 to Vb pin 5.

Here is some instructions for wiring a filament harness. http://45watt.18watt.com/gallery/album08
These instructions are for a JTM45 but the process is the same. Twisting up the wiring harness before installing it is easier for me. It takes some simple small tools(photo 3) to get in close to cut and strip the wires while installing the filament wiring harness.

First, how do you accomplish soldering two wires to the prongs (e.g. the 4th tab is soldered 2 times, one going to the next valve and one going to the previous valve), do you place one on the front and one on the back? Do you place one on, heat the solder and push the second one in there? Does it make a conection at all if there is solder between the two wires? Each time i manage to be able to stablize the wires, sodler, solder iron long enough to actually solder, the solder from the other wire connected pops loose as its connection heats up simultaneously.

I added the last photo to the gallery above so you could see the tube socket close up. Click on the image for an even larger image. Notice I have bent the solder lugs, on the tube socket, out at a slight angle. That will give you a bit more room. This is V1 so there is only one wire going to pins 4&5. But on the other tube sockets you will do it the same way with two wires. You can see the wire is brought through the solder lug for pin4 then brought back through the solder lug for pin5. This will stay in place while you solder the wire(s). If there is two wires, bring them both through the solder lug for pin4 then only carry one wire over to pin5. That's a lot easier and works just as well.
hth, markd

[Dai]

do whatever you need to to keep the wires in place. Kinking the wires by hand so they don't move out of position, pre-tinning the tips and socket lug beforehand so you can hold the wires with one hand and solder w/the other w/out having to add any, or tape the wire(s) in place temporarily just til you finish(maybe away from the direct area but it may be enough just to keep the wires from moving for the time being), etc. Note that pre-tinning exposed tips of wires to be soldered will make the process go faster and decrease likelihood of the evil shrinkback esp. when using PVC wire. You can also try learning how to hold the iron and solder in one hand. I can't do it but apparently it can be done. Then you have the other hand free to hold stuff down. Probably helps if you have big hands (or long fingers).

[DTBphan]

I added the last photo to the gallery above so you could see the tube socket close up. Click on the image for an even larger image. Notice I have bent the solder lugs, on the tube socket, out at a slight angle. That will give you a bit more room. This is V1 so there is only one wire going to pins 4&5. But on the other tube sockets you will do it the same way with two wires. You can see the wire is brought through the solder lug for pin4 then brought back through the solder lug for pin5. This will stay in place while you solder the wire(s). If there is two wires, bring them both through the solder lug for pin4 then only carry one wire over to pin5. That's a lot easier and works just as well.
hth, markd

I thought of bending them slightly but i was afraid this might harm the socket itself. It seems like a fragile part. If you tough the tabs they will slightly jiggle. and i was afraid fo knocking them out of place or that they would be too fragile to bend. I may try this if i get in a bind.

Your photo that shows how you pre-wire and then solder might help, i like that idea.

Boy those heads look a lot easier to solder than the combos..... Should have started with a head i guess!!

I will take another crack at it tonight..... after desoldering everything i did last night.

[markd]

Here's a photo of the filament wiring on a combo:
http://www.18watt.com/modules.php?set_a ... _photo.php
There are more good photos in the Gallery on this site.
markd

[Dai]

also, I like to put plugs in the sockets when soldering the pins. My thinking is that this way, they have the same exact amount of play when an actual tube is inserted (and I suppose it helps since they move less also). You could use a dead tube or some weird unwanted one you don't care about w/the same basing, BUT REMEMBER TO TAKE IT OUT BEFORE YOU POWER UP!