Why Use Finger Joints?

[yaemish]

Is there a reason to use finger joints instead of screws and wood glue if you are just going to cover the enclosure with Tolex? If nobody is going to be standing on the box, would it be just as good to be a little lazy here?

[guitarmike2107]

well besides the obviously finger locking together which provides allot of strength, you also increase the surface area that is being glued, but they are a PITA if you don’t have the right tools. If you have a router you can buy a guide jig or make your own quite easily.

Just screws and but joint wouldn’t hack it for me , but I do generally use butt joints with corner blocks glued in and then drill and glue in dowels. Never had a cabinet fail yet and I have jumped on and dropped many.

Cheers

Mike

[yaemish]

Thanks for the explanation. What about for just heads?

[GetouttheVolt]

Thanks for the explanation. What about for just heads?

Yaemish, I've built cabinets using the Kreg jig - very easy to use, strong, and much less expensive than a router setup. A web search will turn up some good stuff including video tutorials.

[ajkimba]

I make kitchen cabinets for a living and have made hundreds of cases, bookshelves, furniture, etc.

While dovetails and finger joints are stronger then butt joints by far, a screw and glue is a pretty strong joint. Especially for a head cabinet. If I were making one head and covering it, I'd probably screw and glue with support blocks inside. If I were making at least five or more, I'd take the time for dovetails or finger joints. In my business setting up the machinery is the time killer.

Bottom line, if you can live with knowing you have a butt joint that will "never fail for a head cab", use the screws, if not well go for it.

[labb]

I have done dovetail, fingerjoint, butt joint and biscuit joints in builds. At this time I have pretty much settled on using biscuit joints for heads and fingerjoints for combos. That is what seems to work best for me.

[ajkimba]

I have done dovetail, fingerjoint, butt joint and biscuit joints in builds. At this time I have pretty much settled on using biscuit joints for heads and fingerjoints for combos. That is what seems to work best for me.

I use biscuits all the time, works well if you need to see the joint for finishing purposes but "screws are stronger then biscuits if done right", I've tested this.

I think it's more of a head trip whether you got dovetails, finger joints, etc. Just knowing one skipped general woodworking joinery techniques, leaves a void that you didn't do it right...?

Six to one, half a dozen to the other....... but I say:

"Five to One__ baby,__ one in five.__ No one here__ gets out alive__"

[Z_Stingray]

For any cabinet that will take more abuse like someone sitting or standing on it, I recommend either finger or dovetail joints for very strong and durable construction. Anything else will work for a head cab as long as the owner is satisfied.

I used rabbet joints for the last head cab I build. I glued it together with Gattor Glue. That thing is very strong and is going to last a long time.

[Phil_S]

When I work with plywood, I use rabbets because I find the dovetail jig allows excessive splintering. This is due to my skills and equipment. For solid wood, I use the Keller dovetail jig, which is very easy to use and I highly recommend it. Get the "amateur" one made of phenolic, as it is more than good enough and much less costly.

To give more strength to the rabbet, I use a right angle bracket in each corner. You can either get L shaped brackets, or you you can use the metal tie hardware that you find for construction with 2x4 lumber. The tie hardware is cheaper and you'll only need one per right angle if you get the right kind. With L brackets, you probably need 2 for each joint. Drill screw pilot holes carefully

[WaZaK]

Finger or dovetail joints for very strong and durable construction. Anything else will work for a head cab as long as the owner is satisfied.

Wise words ......

At the risk of upsetting the purists who erroneously believe that dovetailed plywood was originally used because it was "best" rather than a material and process cheaply available at the time, unless you intend to use your head as a battering ram to be first into BestBuy on Black Friday, butt jointed MDF is more than adequate IMHO.

OK, so I use 4 hardwood dowels in each corner as a "belt and braces" insurance for reinforcement (after the corner glue has dried), but this head's not going to BestBuy this fall .......

But this new build won't sound as good as "the real thing" - vinyl textured instead of Tolex even. What sacrilege! (Lololol)

[BDC]

Finger or dovetail joints for very strong and durable construction. Anything else will work for a head cab as long as the owner is satisfied.

Wise words ......

At the risk of upsetting the purists who erroneously believe that dovetailed plywood was originally used because it was "best" rather than a material and process cheaply available at the time, unless you intend to use your head as a battering ram to be first into BestBuy on Black Friday, butt jointed MDF is more than adequate IMHO.

OK, so I use 4 hardwood dowels in each corner as a "belt and braces" insurance for reinforcement (after the corner glue has dried), but this head's not going to BestBuy this fall .......

But this new build won't sound as good as "the real thing" - vinyl textured instead of Tolex even. What sacrilege! (Lololol)

Please explain you process and exact materials for achieving that finish..

I had a simular idea I was gonna shoot a box with sheetrock texturing and then shoot vinyl paint over that....You apparentlty have the idea more refined......I was even considering thats truck bed spray.....Rhino lining or whatever it is.......I like the look of your cabinet-no seams! and even the piping added......Please do tell.........

[mcrracer]

For a light weight super strong cab...1/2" plywood, butt joints PL Premium Polyurethane adhesive. Clamp and /or screw it. Equals a joint that will not let go. After it dries the screws can be removed. I am disabled so I have to have light weight cabs.

[WaZaK]

Please explain your process and exact materials for achieving that finish..

Very crude and extremely inexpensive!

I have done a few this way now. I did a bit of practicing first on scrap wood - to see if I could even get a finish I would be satisfied with.

OK, so it's a BS finish! But still not bad - complete head for $7 including all materials? Fitting a handle will more than double the overall cost!

Anyway, here are 3 annotated pictures ....... Hope it gives you some ideas.

[WaZaK]

Here is my LiteIIb (with VVR and PPIMV) and a 1x12 done the same way.

[mcrracer]

Hey WaZaK...Good Job!!!

[WaZaK]

I am disabled so I have to have light weight cabs.

Yes, I understand. And 3/4" MDF is as heavy as a truckload of elephant dung ........ Still I like it and weight is not a problem for me.
MDF screws up blades as well, but what do folks want for 10 cents a square mile? Lolol.

Thanks for the compliment BTW. Each one seems to get a tiny little bit better. I guess practice makes perfect .......

[jaysg]

For me, pure wood joints seem...pure. I don't like the idea of metal rusting in there and then there's roundovers. I suppose if you countersink the screws, they'd be out of the way.

A number of people at The Amp Garage, including myself, have bought dovetail boxes from these guys;

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001991 ... awers.aspx

They will delete the kerf for the drawer bottom if you ask. What isn't clear online is that they're built of 2 inch wide strips, so they're not all that great for staining and clear finishes.

[BDC]

Here is my LiteIIb (with VVR and PPIMV) and a 1x12 done the same way.

Thanks for sharing........I like it.......

[WaZaK]

they're built of 2 inch wide strips, so they're not all that great for staining and clear finishes.

$50 (typical) per head (flat packed) - plus $10 shipping - for glued together 5/8" thick strips? - I'm disappointed. Approx $40 is a lot of money for machining one box.

But I guess it satisfies those who MUST have dovetails - though I'm not too sure of the point of paying for blind dovetails - then (as most do) doing a roundover!

I also can't think of a good reason to use hardwood for a head box that (from the sounds of it) needs to be covered. $10 worth of solid 3/4" pine makes more sense to me. $5's worth of MDF makes even more sense!

Still, for those who can't/don't/won't do basic woodwork, and have the money to spare, it's an option - except I'm wondering how one makes the front and back panels - with neat cut-outs - without the skills to stick 4 pieces of wood together ......

(Maybe "there's an app for that" Lolol)

[jaysg]

$50 for a head is about right. It depends on how much your time is worth. I've only done one head this way. I have all the rig for 1/4" finger joints and have built up several cabs. This approach saved a great deal of hassle for me. I've done the roundovers and cleat work the usual ways.