new build 36lite with vvr

[chaliapin]

Yeah I couldn't find my good wire clippers to trim.

Attached the relevant part of schematic and layout. I don't really understand the significance of one or two resistors.

[JMPGuitars]

The 1M resistors are only in parallel with the parallel input active. Merlin says there's not much difference between 1M or 500K at the input, and that situation is fairly common with Marshall amps.

Do it either way, and don't overthink it.

[chaliapin]

Great thanks. Decided a should probably rotate my OT before going any further... will the wiring going round like this cause any trouble?

[Bieworm]

Great thanks. Decided a should probably rotate my OT before going any further... will the wiring going round like this cause any trouble?

Don't worry about that

[chaliapin]

Thanks bieworm, I assume you mean not to worry about the wires, rather than don't bother rotating the OT?

Made a start on the heater wiring. Yes, it was really fiddly getting two of the thick heater wires through the pins. Not very pleased with my solder joints, I'd like to blame my cheap silverline solder but we all know it's the cut price skills wielding the iron which are the issue...

[Bieworm]

I don't want to discourage you in any way, but you have to be aware that the heater wiring is one of the most important wirings in an amp that's causing hum/buzz when not done properly.
Regardless of what you saw on other sites about routing those wires it is still the best way to NOT route them around the tube sockets. Those are high current carrying wires and will create a magnetic field. You don't want that field near any signal wires or you will get (cross talk) coupling. This can be a very likely source of hum.
I know you want to use the double wires, but I would not.. too difficult to get those tightly and snug at the tubes.

Also, I would recommend you use heat shrink on the stripped wires. There is a substantial part of the copper wire naked at the tube pins. IMHO that's a dangerous situation and easily touched by accident, with the risk of shorting while prodding or probing.

Not that I'm the best heater wirer, but here's an idea of how I do things:

20211213_203039.jpg

[chaliapin]

Thanks bieworm. You really like heat shrink! I'll try again, I went round the socket because mine have a central pin in the way but I'll go across on the pre amp tubes and try to be trimmer and tidier.

[Bieworm]

Thanks bieworm. You really like heat shrink! I'll try again, I went round the socket because mine have a central pin in the way but I'll go across on the pre amp tubes and try to be trimmer and tidier.

Hahahaha.. yeah, I learned from Josh (obviously)
The main reason is that the heater wiring should not be able to move, no matter what. With the heat shrink between the connections you make this string very sturdy and impossible to move around

Cut that center pin out. I will too on mine...
Those sockets are intended for PTP wiring...

20221120_231437.jpg

[chaliapin]

Will do really appreciate the photos, I know I can find them online but it's not actually that easy and all I have is seen ancient phone with a cracked screen and a rural internet connection which takes me back to the era of diallup....

[chaliapin]

Pin 9 v6 is that what im wanting?

[Bieworm]

Pin 9 v6 is that what im wanting?

Yes

[chaliapin]

Great im on the right track.

Unfortunately I tried clipping the middle pin of the preamp sockets. It all looked a bit ugly so I thought I'll do a PROPER JOB. Drilled the back of the centre pin out, pushed the whole piece out, perfect. Socket fell apart in my hand. As probably everyone else knows the centre pin holds the thing together...

Then thought id add two to my tube town order which ive been waiting a week to be shipped. Check my email and it dispatched this morning...Looks like I'll be spending another 20e postage for 4e of sockets... so much for my no spend project...

[JMPGuitars]

I like Belton Micalex sockets. Great, reliable, no middle pin to crumble or ruin things...

[chaliapin]

Soldered a few bits onto the power tubes. Removed heater wires as they all looked turdy. The wire I have for everything else is 22awg and I probably have enough to do the heaters in that. What do you think?

[Bieworm]

lokkin' pretty good!

[chaliapin]

Great thanks. If I go for new heater wire from tube town what's the best option? 20awg? Solid or stranded? Cloth covered?

[JMPGuitars]

Great thanks. If I go for new heater wire from tube town what's the best option? 20awg? Solid or stranded? Cloth covered?

I use 20AWG PTFE wire. 22AWG is sufficient enough for Marshall to use it in their amps tho.

Don't use cloth covered wire in your amps unless you're looking for the wrong kind of .

Thanks,
Josh

[Bieworm]

Tube-Town sells 0.7mm silicon wires. I always use those.

[chaliapin]

Great, thanks guys. Gonna order vvr kit from tubetown and sockets and probably heater wire. Anything else I might need after ive broken something? Any Zeners to fix high voltage? I should have everything for 36w lite then, plus parts for effects loop, vvr and type 2 MV.

I've no funds left for reverb parts at this point but i listened to your recordings on the tele forum bieworm and i really liked it. Any links to docs etc would be v appreciated.

[JMPGuitars]

You can find general useful info and Zener info here: viewtopic.php?t=25173

Or you can click the B+ dropping thread link in my signature.

Thanks,
Josh