new build 36lite with vvr
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
It says 250 ac so I should be good. Did my tube town order finally. Still haven't got up the courage to actually solder anything though...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Lol ... wait until you get the hang of it... I never stopped soldering ever since
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Hope so!
So couple more small questions.
Wire colours, what where?
Heat shrink, where to use it?
Thanks.
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So couple more small questions.
Wire colours, what where?
Heat shrink, where to use it?
Thanks.
Sent from my SM-J600FN using Tapatalk
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Yeah and a couple more sorry. I have 4 cliff jacks, inputs and speaker outputs. They seem identical, I THINK they are switched. Where should switched and non switched jacks be used?
Sorry for so the bog basic questions...
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Sorry for so the bog basic questions...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
The answer to those questions can be found in my layouts. For example: files/JMPGuitars_18_Watt_Tremolo_TMB_Layout.pdf
You can use whatever colors you want, but it's easier to troubleshoot if you follow a simple scheme. 1 color for each type. In my newer layouts, I do red for plates, black for cathodes, etc.. As long as you're consistent, it's all good.
Thanks,
Josh
You can use whatever colors you want, but it's easier to troubleshoot if you follow a simple scheme. 1 color for each type. In my newer layouts, I do red for plates, black for cathodes, etc.. As long as you're consistent, it's all good.
Thanks,
Josh
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
In my case i put heat shrink on every stripped wire to avoid the coat melting open
Colors are a personal choice, but be structural. My choices are:
Brown and black for heaters
Red for plate wires
Blue for grid wires
Black for cathode wires
Black for grounds
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Thanks guys, I'll work out a colour scheme...
Sorry Josh, I understand how you wire the jacks. I just don't understand switched or un switched, my four all look the same. Does the wiring make them switched or not?
Sorry Josh, I understand how you wire the jacks. I just don't understand switched or un switched, my four all look the same. Does the wiring make them switched or not?
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Aren't they cliff jacks? I thought they are all switched. The wiring layout determines whether they make use of the switch or not.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
I realised that must be it after looking at every cliff Jack picture on the internet and deciding they all looked the same...
Braved my first bit of soldering. Did a fair bit years ago but to honest I feel like it's the first go I've had. These are the input jacks with r1 and 2 and bare wire connections. I can do them again if they're really crap...
Braved my first bit of soldering. Did a fair bit years ago but to honest I feel like it's the first go I've had. These are the input jacks with r1 and 2 and bare wire connections. I can do them again if they're really crap...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
I wonder why there are 2 pcs 1M grid load resistors on that input combo? Now you get the situation that when you plug into the 2nd input the 1M resistors get parallelled, resulting in a 500k grid load...
I always put only one 1M resistor at a double input configuration.
Watch out that the most right resistor doesn't touch the chassis when mounted. This could create a ground loop...
I always put only one 1M resistor at a double input configuration.
Watch out that the most right resistor doesn't touch the chassis when mounted. This could create a ground loop...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Yeah I couldn't find my good wire clippers to trim.
Attached the relevant part of schematic and layout. I don't really understand the significance of one or two resistors.
Attached the relevant part of schematic and layout. I don't really understand the significance of one or two resistors.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
The 1M resistors are only in parallel with the parallel input active. Merlin says there's not much difference between 1M or 500K at the input, and that situation is fairly common with Marshall amps.
Do it either way, and don't overthink it.
Do it either way, and don't overthink it.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Great thanks. Decided a should probably rotate my OT before going any further... will the wiring going round like this cause any trouble?
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Don't worry about that
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Thanks bieworm, I assume you mean not to worry about the wires, rather than don't bother rotating the OT?
Made a start on the heater wiring. Yes, it was really fiddly getting two of the thick heater wires through the pins. Not very pleased with my solder joints, I'd like to blame my cheap silverline solder but we all know it's the cut price skills wielding the iron which are the issue...
Made a start on the heater wiring. Yes, it was really fiddly getting two of the thick heater wires through the pins. Not very pleased with my solder joints, I'd like to blame my cheap silverline solder but we all know it's the cut price skills wielding the iron which are the issue...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
I don't want to discourage you in any way, but you have to be aware that the heater wiring is one of the most important wirings in an amp that's causing hum/buzz when not done properly.
Regardless of what you saw on other sites about routing those wires it is still the best way to NOT route them around the tube sockets. Those are high current carrying wires and will create a magnetic field. You don't want that field near any signal wires or you will get (cross talk) coupling. This can be a very likely source of hum.
I know you want to use the double wires, but I would not.. too difficult to get those tightly and snug at the tubes.
Also, I would recommend you use heat shrink on the stripped wires. There is a substantial part of the copper wire naked at the tube pins. IMHO that's a dangerous situation and easily touched by accident, with the risk of shorting while prodding or probing.
Not that I'm the best heater wirer, but here's an idea of how I do things:
Regardless of what you saw on other sites about routing those wires it is still the best way to NOT route them around the tube sockets. Those are high current carrying wires and will create a magnetic field. You don't want that field near any signal wires or you will get (cross talk) coupling. This can be a very likely source of hum.
I know you want to use the double wires, but I would not.. too difficult to get those tightly and snug at the tubes.
Also, I would recommend you use heat shrink on the stripped wires. There is a substantial part of the copper wire naked at the tube pins. IMHO that's a dangerous situation and easily touched by accident, with the risk of shorting while prodding or probing.
Not that I'm the best heater wirer, but here's an idea of how I do things:
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Thanks bieworm. You really like heat shrink! I'll try again, I went round the socket because mine have a central pin in the way but I'll go across on the pre amp tubes and try to be trimmer and tidier.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Hahahaha.. yeah, I learned from Josh (obviously)
The main reason is that the heater wiring should not be able to move, no matter what. With the heat shrink between the connections you make this string very sturdy and impossible to move around
Cut that center pin out. I will too on mine...
Those sockets are intended for PTP wiring...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Will do really appreciate the photos, I know I can find them online but it's not actually that easy and all I have is seen ancient phone with a cracked screen and a rural internet connection which takes me back to the era of diallup....
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Pin 9 v6 is that what im wanting?
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