new build 36lite with vvr
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Rough layout of board before I start trying to fit turrets. Can't read the faded marking on the third cap from the left, should be 4.7n according to schematic, I THINK it is...
Only think I've done apart from 36 lite is add the 68k resistor for the effects loop.
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Only think I've done apart from 36 lite is add the 68k resistor for the effects loop.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Do you have a meter that can read capacitance? I highly recommend testing all components before installing. You could grab and DE5000 LCR meter, or an M6013 capacitance meter if you need to.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Bad news is my mm doesn't measure capacitance.... The good news is I'd finally found the thing...
Im sure that capacitance is right as I have some chassis pictures from Steve who supplied the parts and I can see the identical capacitor, can't tell which way round it goes though...
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Im sure that capacitance is right as I have some chassis pictures from Steve who supplied the parts and I can see the identical capacitor, can't tell which way round it goes though...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
I still recommend testing everything before soldering. You get to confirm values, and see if anything is defective. It saves a lot of time if there are any issues once it's all together.chaliapin wrote: ↑Wed 11/09/22 10:45 amBad news is my mm doesn't measure capacitance.... The good news is I'd finally found the thing...
Im sure that capacitance is right as I have some chassis pictures from Steve who supplied the parts and I can see the identical capacitor, can't tell which way round it goes though...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Yeah I suppose you're right. I'll se can I borrow a meter to test the caps.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Borrow one from Amazon.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
So my heater wire is 18awg in a pair, should I split it so I can twist it properly?
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
No, if it's solid together, then it should have the same effect as being twisted. Personally, I don't like anything heavier than 20AWG for the heaters, but only because it gets harder to work with. Good luck.
Thanks,
Josh
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Thanks. Borrowed a meter, all caps testing as marked. However instead of having either 4.7n or 5n for c1 and c4 I seem to have;
2x47n
2x100uf which i think might be alternatives for c9 and c10
1x 47uf
Guess i was sent 47n instead of 4.7 grr.
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2x47n
2x100uf which i think might be alternatives for c9 and c10
1x 47uf
Guess i was sent 47n instead of 4.7 grr.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Mistakes happen, that's why I test first.chaliapin wrote: ↑Sat 11/12/22 5:55 pmThanks. Borrowed a meter, all caps testing as marked. However instead of having either 4.7n or 5n for c1 and c4 I seem to have;
2x47n
2x100uf which i think might be alternatives for c9 and c10
1x 47uf
Guess i was sent 47n instead of 4.7 grr.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Still haven't done my tube town order. Something about 20e delivery for a few euro of parts just kills me. Anyway. Attached all the non solder parts, sockets ground lugs etc. Please shout about anything stupid I've done.
The IEC socket has a little drawer for a fuse do I need the chassis mounted fuse? I have 3 holes, thinking I'm making a combo so just one output Jack would do for the speakers then id have two for my effects loop?
My transformers are both orientated the same way, am I doomed or will it probably be alright?
Gonna watch the soldering videos and try to make a start tinning the transformer wires or something simple before making a start in the heater circuit.
All sound ok?
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The IEC socket has a little drawer for a fuse do I need the chassis mounted fuse? I have 3 holes, thinking I'm making a combo so just one output Jack would do for the speakers then id have two for my effects loop?
My transformers are both orientated the same way, am I doomed or will it probably be alright?
Gonna watch the soldering videos and try to make a start tinning the transformer wires or something simple before making a start in the heater circuit.
All sound ok?
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
You do not need a second fuse holder unless you plan on adding a second fuse to your circuit. Your idea might work, but I don't know if it's a great idea to have your FX loop right next to the output jack.
Probably doomed if the windings are the same orientation.My transformers are both orientated the same way, am I doomed or will it probably be alright?
Very good idea. Also review photos of other builds.Gonna watch the soldering videos and try to make a start tinning the transformer wires or something simple before making a start in the heater circuit.
Thanks,
Josh
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Thanks Josh. Tried turning the OT through 90 degrees but it would need a new hole in the chassis so im just gonna hope Steve thought it through for me when he drilled the chassis...
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
The wires are also plenty looking so could turn through 180 but the wires would have to route around half of the transistor before going through the chassis.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Pretty sure this is my OT so that's another thing cleared up.
https://www.trans-amp.co.uk/productinfo ... tem=TT4121
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
So on my layout, the screen from the PT is connected between r25 and 26. I don't want to connect this to the power tube do I? Where should I put it?
Also I'm concerned about soldering 2 heater wires AND a resistor onto the heater pins for the elevated heater circuit. The pins look quite small to me...
Lastly can I connect the pilot light to the 5v pins on the gz34 instead of the heater circuit for all the other tubes? My schematic has it across the mains voltage but the light says 6v on it so that can't be right...
Hope im using all the right words and making some sort of vague sense...
Thanks all for your help and patience.
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Also I'm concerned about soldering 2 heater wires AND a resistor onto the heater pins for the elevated heater circuit. The pins look quite small to me...
Lastly can I connect the pilot light to the 5v pins on the gz34 instead of the heater circuit for all the other tubes? My schematic has it across the mains voltage but the light says 6v on it so that can't be right...
Hope im using all the right words and making some sort of vague sense...
Thanks all for your help and patience.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
You can/should attach the 6.3VAC heater wires to the pilot light. When you use a double solder terminal, you can run the wires from the PT to that terminal. From there you run 2 sets of wires, 1 set for the pilot and the other set for the heaters. This terminal is an ideal location for attaching the artificial CT too...chaliapin wrote: ↑Tue 11/15/22 4:26 pmSo on my layout, the screen from the PT is connected between r25 and 26. I don't want to connect this to the power tube do I? Where should I put it?
Also I'm concerned about soldering 2 heater wires AND a resistor onto the heater pins for the elevated heater circuit. The pins look quite small to me...
Lastly can I connect the pilot light to the 5v pins on the gz34 instead of the heater circuit for all the other tubes? My schematic has it across the mains voltage but the light says 6v on it so that can't be right...
Hope im using all the right words and making some sort of vague sense...
Thanks all for your help and patience.
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Important: put the terminal very near the pilot light. This to avoid having 2 parallel circuits from the 6.3VAC winding.
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
Ok great, solder terminal.
This is a pot with dpst switch on it isn't it?
It's supposed to be my on off and vvr combined. I can use it just as a power switch for the moment can't I?
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This is a pot with dpst switch on it isn't it?
It's supposed to be my on off and vvr combined. I can use it just as a power switch for the moment can't I?
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Re: new build 36lite with vvr
That depends on the power rating of that dip switch .don't put yourself in danger
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