new build 36lite with vvr

[chaliapin]

Rough layout of board before I start trying to fit turrets. Can't read the faded marking on the third cap from the left, should be 4.7n according to schematic, I THINK it is...
Only think I've done apart from 36 lite is add the 68k resistor for the effects loop.

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[JMPGuitars]

Do you have a meter that can read capacitance? I highly recommend testing all components before installing. You could grab and DE5000 LCR meter, or an M6013 capacitance meter if you need to.

[chaliapin]

Bad news is my mm doesn't measure capacitance.... The good news is I'd finally found the thing...

Im sure that capacitance is right as I have some chassis pictures from Steve who supplied the parts and I can see the identical capacitor, can't tell which way round it goes though...

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[JMPGuitars]

Bad news is my mm doesn't measure capacitance.... The good news is I'd finally found the thing...

Im sure that capacitance is right as I have some chassis pictures from Steve who supplied the parts and I can see the identical capacitor, can't tell which way round it goes though...

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I still recommend testing everything before soldering. You get to confirm values, and see if anything is defective. It saves a lot of time if there are any issues once it's all together.

[chaliapin]

Yeah I suppose you're right. I'll se can I borrow a meter to test the caps.

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[JMPGuitars]

Yeah I suppose you're right. I'll se can I borrow a meter to test the caps.

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Borrow one from Amazon.

[chaliapin]

Ive actually started!

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[chaliapin]

So my heater wire is 18awg in a pair, should I split it so I can twist it properly?

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[JMPGuitars]

So my heater wire is 18awg in a pair, should I split it so I can twist it properly?

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No, if it's solid together, then it should have the same effect as being twisted. Personally, I don't like anything heavier than 20AWG for the heaters, but only because it gets harder to work with. Good luck.

Thanks,
Josh

[chaliapin]

Thanks. Borrowed a meter, all caps testing as marked. However instead of having either 4.7n or 5n for c1 and c4 I seem to have;

2x47n
2x100uf which i think might be alternatives for c9 and c10
1x 47uf

Guess i was sent 47n instead of 4.7 grr.

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[JMPGuitars]

Thanks. Borrowed a meter, all caps testing as marked. However instead of having either 4.7n or 5n for c1 and c4 I seem to have;

2x47n
2x100uf which i think might be alternatives for c9 and c10
1x 47uf

Guess i was sent 47n instead of 4.7 grr.

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Mistakes happen, that's why I test first.

[chaliapin]

Still haven't done my tube town order. Something about 20e delivery for a few euro of parts just kills me. Anyway. Attached all the non solder parts, sockets ground lugs etc. Please shout about anything stupid I've done.

The IEC socket has a little drawer for a fuse do I need the chassis mounted fuse? I have 3 holes, thinking I'm making a combo so just one output Jack would do for the speakers then id have two for my effects loop?

My transformers are both orientated the same way, am I doomed or will it probably be alright?

Gonna watch the soldering videos and try to make a start tinning the transformer wires or something simple before making a start in the heater circuit.

All sound ok?

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[JMPGuitars]

The IEC socket has a little drawer for a fuse do I need the chassis mounted fuse? I have 3 holes, thinking I'm making a combo so just one output Jack would do for the speakers then id have two for my effects loop?

You do not need a second fuse holder unless you plan on adding a second fuse to your circuit. Your idea might work, but I don't know if it's a great idea to have your FX loop right next to the output jack.

My transformers are both orientated the same way, am I doomed or will it probably be alright?

Probably doomed if the windings are the same orientation.

Gonna watch the soldering videos and try to make a start tinning the transformer wires or something simple before making a start in the heater circuit.

Very good idea. Also review photos of other builds.

Thanks,
Josh

[chaliapin]

Thanks Josh. Tried turning the OT through 90 degrees but it would need a new hole in the chassis so im just gonna hope Steve thought it through for me when he drilled the chassis...

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[chaliapin]

The wires are also plenty looking so could turn through 180 but the wires would have to route around half of the transistor before going through the chassis.

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[chaliapin]

Pretty sure this is my OT so that's another thing cleared up.

https://www.trans-amp.co.uk/productinfo ... tem=TT4121

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[chaliapin]

So on my layout, the screen from the PT is connected between r25 and 26. I don't want to connect this to the power tube do I? Where should I put it?

Also I'm concerned about soldering 2 heater wires AND a resistor onto the heater pins for the elevated heater circuit. The pins look quite small to me...

Lastly can I connect the pilot light to the 5v pins on the gz34 instead of the heater circuit for all the other tubes? My schematic has it across the mains voltage but the light says 6v on it so that can't be right...

Hope im using all the right words and making some sort of vague sense...

Thanks all for your help and patience.

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[Bieworm]

So on my layout, the screen from the PT is connected between r25 and 26. I don't want to connect this to the power tube do I? Where should I put it?

Also I'm concerned about soldering 2 heater wires AND a resistor onto the heater pins for the elevated heater circuit. The pins look quite small to me...

Lastly can I connect the pilot light to the 5v pins on the gz34 instead of the heater circuit for all the other tubes? My schematic has it across the mains voltage but the light says 6v on it so that can't be right...

Hope im using all the right words and making some sort of vague sense...

Thanks all for your help and patience.

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You can/should attach the 6.3VAC heater wires to the pilot light. When you use a double solder terminal, you can run the wires from the PT to that terminal. From there you run 2 sets of wires, 1 set for the pilot and the other set for the heaters. This terminal is an ideal location for attaching the artificial CT too...

Important: put the terminal very near the pilot light. This to avoid having 2 parallel circuits from the 6.3VAC winding.

solder terminal.png

[chaliapin]

Ok great, solder terminal.
This is a pot with dpst switch on it isn't it?

It's supposed to be my on off and vvr combined. I can use it just as a power switch for the moment can't I?

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[Bieworm]

That depends on the power rating of that dip switch .don't put yourself in danger