36W Turretboard Layout

[JMPGuitars]

I stopped using under-board wires. It's much easier to troubleshoot or modify if they're above board.

[Bieworm]

I stopped using under-board wires. It's much easier to troubleshoot or modify if they're above board.

+ if you forgot to take pictures it's always a possibility the wires are between the wrong turrets, and you can't confirm without desoldering the entire board. As a rookie : been there obviously

[JMPGuitars]

+ if you forgot to take pictures it's always a possibility the wires are between the wrong turrets, and you can't confirm without desoldering the entire board. As a rookie : been there obviously

Of course you can confirm. That's what multimeters are for! Continuity/resistance testing will tell you if your connections are good or not. But it's still better to have the connections on top.

[crgfrench]

Sometimes I build boards with the caps all on one side and the resistors all on the other side. You can make a very compact board that way. You guys will be happy on this 36W though, I came back from the dark side and used a LTP! All of my others so far have been cathodyne.

[crgfrench]

Ground bus installed

20200623_150750.jpg

20200623_150624.jpg

[crgfrench]

Here is my schematic for this build, sorry it's a little messy; I drew it with a ruler & pencil. This is based on the Ceriatone 36 Watt Layout from 01/25/2010. Component values are listed from the layout, and in parentheses are the actual values I'm using in this build. There's a 220k 3W resistor on the can cap, and a cap & resistor across the standby switch that are not shown on this schematic. Sorry about the poor image quality, my scanner is broken so I took a picture of it with my phone.

20200705_041353.jpg

[crgfrench]

Just noticed I forgot to label a resistor -- the one at ground bus point 8 is 56k.

[crgfrench]

Also, the mid tone cap (just above bus point 12) is mislabeled as 0.0047uF; it's actually 0.047uF.
Here is a picture of the tone stack if you wanted to build it P2P on the pots instead of on the board (with a EQ lift switch added).

Fullerwell 36 P2PTMB.png

And here's a description of how I selected the values.

Tone Stack Modeling.png

[crgfrench]

I cleaned up the schematic

Overkill36 Schematic.png

Edit: There were a few errors on my original "36 Watt Schematic" diagram. I have fixed them in this one, titled "Overkill 36 Schematic". Specifically, there were a couple of components missing (the resistors across the can cap, the diodes and cap at the GZ34 plates), R18 was drawn wrong, and there was an incorrect connection shown between the V5,V6 plates and R29. I fixed all that, as well as color coding the signal paths and adding component values to the labels.

[crgfrench]

Installed the heater wiring today

20200709_213149.jpg

20200709_213412.jpg

20200709_213945.jpg

[JMPGuitars]

Looks great! You might want to get those pin 9 wires tighter to each other on the preamp tubes. Personally, I don't solder pin 9 or connect the pin 9 wires until the rest of the socket is wired. Less worry about my iron slipping.

[crgfrench]

Thanks Josh -- on V2 and V3 the pin 9 wires skirt around pins 4 and 5 to go up the middle (one between pin 3&4 and the other between pin 8 & 9). For V1 I ran it between pins 4 & 5, underneath the solder connection in that little tunnel.

[JMPGuitars]

Thanks Josh -- on V2 and V3 the pin 9 wires skirt around pins 4 and 5 to go up the middle (one between pin 3&4 and the other between pin 8 & 9). For V1 I ran it between pins 4 & 5, underneath the solder connection in that little tunnel.

Yes, I see what you did. But you might have noise issues if the pin 9 wires on those 2 valves aren't tighter together, and going up the middle. Maybe not. Keep it in mind if you hear heater noise. Either way, their current position will make soldering the surrounding pins more difficult. Hopefully you can move them out of the way.

[crgfrench]

Granger amps has a video showing how to melt holes in a Plexi panel with a soldering iron. To add the FX loop I needed 7/16 holes.
Drilled up to 1/4 and then on 5/16, the bit started to chip the hole edges so I switched to the melting method at that point, worked great.

20200713_182751.jpg

[crgfrench]

I decided to go with Saul's tube FX loop.

20200711_222319.jpg

[JMPGuitars]

Interesting technique! Personally I use an exacto knife, no drilling needed.

[Bieworm]

Interesting technique! Personally I use an exacto knife, no drilling needed.

First drill it and then widen the hole with an exacto knife? Or immediatly with an exacto?

[JMPGuitars]

First drill it and then widen the hole with an exacto knife? Or immediatly with an exacto?

Knife immediately. I cut a cross pattern in the middle, then work around the edge to keep it smooth.

[Bieworm]

First drill it and then widen the hole with an exacto knife? Or immediatly with an exacto?

Knife immediately. I cut a cross pattern in the middle, then work around the edge to keep it smooth.

Sounds dangerous...

[JMPGuitars]

Sounds dangerous...

If you think so, you probably shouldn't be allowed around sharp objects.