36 watt layout for Heyboer transformers

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Tue 03/01/05 1:37 am

After ordering a set of Heyboer transformers for my 36 watt (OT=HTS-7013-1
, PT=HTS-7042), I noticed that I would be changing the wiring a bit compared to the layout in Riches gallery. The OT I understand, its just the PT that bothers me. The wiring is as follows:
PT:
Primary (2)= black wires
HV sec red-red/yel(ct)-red
6.3v (2) - greens
5v (2)- yellows

I came out with a layout based on the older 36 watt layout (SPST switches, no HT fuse). After the switch to the newer version, I have had some troubles completely decifering everything and coming up with a new layout (not sure if my old one was 100% right either). Heres my questions:
1.) How exactly does a DPDT switch work?
2.) What is the purpose of the HT fuse?
3.) Does anyone have a completed layout using the Heyboer transformers?
I am still new to the 18watt community, and these questions have been bothering me for some time. Any help would be awesome. Any other tips regarding the 36 watter would be appreciated too, especially as I plan to be assembling it soon. Thanks again,

Chris

EBE · Post by **EBE** » Tue 03/01/05 9:02 am

The 2 black wires correspond to the 120 0 on the drawing in Richie's layout. You really don't have to use a DPDT for the power and only have to switch the hot leg. This is a personal choice. You will see this done both ways. I would look at the various layouts and do some comparisons to get some familiarity with how power sections can be done. The fuse on the center tap is a safety feature so that if something goes wrong in the power section, the fuse will blow and save the PT from going up in smoke. I would bet most people don't have the fuse on the CT even though it is a good idea.

Norm

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Tue 03/01/05 6:10 pm

Ok, I can see how the primaries hook up. I understand how the both sets of the red and yellow wires hook up to the GZ34, and I also understand how the green (6.3v) wires hook up. Richie was kind enough to send me a diagram of the heater wiring and how he integrated a grounding method. For some reason I cannot post it (its only a few kbs in size????). The heater wires connect to a small terminal strip, and from there they continue on to the tube sockets. Two 100 ohm resistors are attacheched from the terminal strip to a ground point, where the center tap connects. What else be grounded to this point? Just the center-tap? When I ground the center-tap to this, should I integrate the fuse? I still don't understand how a DPDT switch works, but I know that I can use SPST switches. Regarding the DPDT switch, I need to know HOW it works (when the switch is switched up, what circuits are open?) Thanks for the help, I am very excited to start on this project.

Chris

EBE · Post by **EBE** » Tue 03/01/05 8:00 pm

Do you have a volt/ohm meter? A good thing to do is just put the probes of the meter on your switch with the meter set to continuity or resistance mode and just check to see if the circuit is open or closed. With a SPST it is either open or closed. I normally need to check a 3P3T switch because I always forget which way they go. On the DPDT you just switch both hot and neutral on the separate circuits. With a SPST just hook up the hot.

Norm

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Tue 03/01/05 8:07 pm

Yes I do. Its just I don't have the switch. I like to plan everything out before I start. But thats what I'll do. Thanks EBE.

Chris

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Wed 03/02/05 5:29 am

Ok, I've tried many time but I cannot add anything. I took quite a bit of time to make a layout, but now I can't seem to post it. I reduced the size all the way down to 40kb, but still nothing works

! Its 2 AM and I need some sleep...... Heres the error I'm getting:

"Sorry, but the maximum filesize for all Attachments is reached. Please contact the Board Administrator if you have questions".

Is this happening to anyone else? I'll be out of town the next few days so I will unfortunately have to wait until then

.

Chris

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Sun 03/06/05 6:14 pm

I finally got it to post. I didn't do anything different, it just worked! Look it over and see what you think. Thanks,

Chris

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Tue 04/05/05 12:07 am

I have been emailed and told that the picture appears to be grainy, so heres another. If its still to poor, I can redraw it in a higher resolution and bigger font. I also posted one in my gallery, but I still have absolutely no confirmations of if this is going to work. ANY help would be appreciated, as I have had this on my bench for quite some time. Thanks,

Chris

bnwitt · Post by **bnwitt** » Tue 04/05/05 9:44 am

I would make just one comment about the choice of using a DPDT to break both legs from the mains. If someday you plug into a miswired outlet in a club (hot and neutral reversed) having just one leg opening with a switch will leave high voltage on the amp. It's always best to break both legs.
Barry

markd · Post by **markd** » Wed 04/06/05 10:46 pm

bnwitt wrote: If someday you plug into a miswired outlet in a club (hot and neutral reversed) having just one leg opening with a switch will leave high voltage on the amp. It's always best to break both legs.
Barry

That being said, if any of you are going into some dark club and just whipping out your plug and ramming it into some strange socket, shame on you. You need some protection. ha!
A simple outlet tester will let you know what's up before you get into trouble. Like this one:
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemain ... ettest.php
These are available at most home centers for < $10.
markd

PS. If you find a miswired outlet on a real stage somewhere, that sucks. And they should fix it right away cause' it was wired illegally for sure.

bnwitt · Post by **bnwitt** » Wed 04/06/05 10:58 pm

markd wrote:That being said, if any of you are going into some dark club and just whipping out your plug and ramming it into some strange socket, shame on you. You need some protection. ha!
A simple outlet tester will let you know what's up before you get into trouble. Like this one:

Oh Mark you are such a wonderful and trusting soul and I love you for it. Watch out for the other guys in your band though, pulling the ol' switcheroo on your amp plug in cause their cord's too short or sumpin' Better safe then sorry I always say.

edit: Oh am I dense, I just got the double meaning of your protection quote.

markd · Post by **markd** » Wed 04/06/05 11:25 pm

Barry,
Yeah, it was mostly a joke. But even with the Double Pole power switch once the amp is turned on a miswired plug can cause ground loop problems, depending on the setup, so the outlet tester comes in handy.

You mention using a DPDT switch. Is that because DPST switches are hard to find? Do you get your DPDT switches from Mouser. Someone mentioned that part # recently but I can't find the post.

bnwitt · Post by **bnwitt** » Wed 04/06/05 11:58 pm

Mark,
no just a typo. I really meant DPST. By the way, has anyone told you recently that you are a very funny man? Cause you are indeed. Not to mention a pretty talented "Tube Dude". Hey I like that. Gabi, can we get some new T shirts that say Tube Dude?

chriswu101 · Post by **chriswu101** » Thu 04/07/05 12:12 am

Ok, thanks for the tips. Looks like I'll be making up another layout, and I'll need to omit the 1.5K resistor on the capacitor, and also organize it more clearly. As for the switches, I still am quite new to amp building and think I'll just use the tester and let things be. Bnwitt, I believe there is a discussion on T-shirts in the gear section on ax84.......just a thought.........

Chris

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36 watt layout for Heyboer transformers

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breaking both legs with a DPDT

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