Pic's of a Mullard 12AX7 out there...
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ajkimba
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Pic's of a Mullard 12AX7 out there...
I hate to ask this but:
I did do a search but didn't find any pic's of a Mullard 12AX7 or a re-labled Mullard 12AX7.
Just wondering if anyone can post pic's of the sweet stuff in 12AX7's, like Mullards and their re-labled cousins.
I got a box of old 12AX7's used, most of them have 12AX7 barely visable but nothing else.
Basically how can I tell what a re-labled Mullard looks like? I'd rather get my info here then eabay.
I did do a search but didn't find any pic's of a Mullard 12AX7 or a re-labled Mullard 12AX7.
Just wondering if anyone can post pic's of the sweet stuff in 12AX7's, like Mullards and their re-labled cousins.
I got a box of old 12AX7's used, most of them have 12AX7 barely visable but nothing else.
Basically how can I tell what a re-labled Mullard looks like? I'd rather get my info here then eabay.
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leslie
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This is the best collection of tube pictures I've found:
https://69.36.182.51/NOS%20Tubes%20Pict ... index.html
If you still have questions, ship 'em all to me and I'll let you know if you've got anything worth keeping.

-Dana
https://69.36.182.51/NOS%20Tubes%20Pict ... index.html
If you still have questions, ship 'em all to me and I'll let you know if you've got anything worth keeping.
-Dana
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burchtone
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Re: Pic's of a Mullard 12AX7 out there...
I don't know if this is true of ALL Mullards, but all the Blackburns I have show four closure seams at the top of the glass. Even the relabels have these. They also have the "B" code etched as was said earlier.ajkimba wrote:Basically how can I tell what a re-labled Mullard looks like? I'd rather get my info here then eabay.
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- maglemer
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Re: Pic's of a Mullard 12AX7 out there...
I would say that the etched code is what to look for. I'm quite sure that Mullards share those seams with quite a few other producers, such as the Heerlen factory.burchtone wrote:I don't know if this is true of ALL Mullards, but all the Blackburns I have show four closure seams at the top of the glass. Even the relabels have these. They also have the "B" code etched as was said earlier.ajkimba wrote:Basically how can I tell what a re-labled Mullard looks like? I'd rather get my info here then eabay.
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- blaren
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davent
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dotfret
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No questions - y hit the jackpot there - 63 Blackburn.
Let us be clear - the Blackburn plant turned out a lot of valves, but there were other plants in Mitcham and Kenley which were also making genuine Mullard valves - and the other plants in the Philips group made nice valves to the same design. The thing that ajkimba should be looking for is that group stylised code of 2-3 characters over 2-4 characters which makes it a Philips group code - but the Brimar code (6 or 7 chars with the silkscreen) and Mazda codes (6/7 chars etched along the axis for Ediswan, similar along or around for MBLE, something that looks like a Philips code but makes no sense for French Mazda) also say that you hav a good 'un. But the Blackburn valves are sought after all over - the S&H coded ("not equal") sign are about as good (better if you are a German), and the USA Amperex production (coded *) are VERY underrated. Mullard were the most relabelled makers on earth (I have Realistic tubes which have a Blackburn code). Any etched code is worth a follow-up - and a lot of old valves are still worthwhile, even without additional codes (Tungsram and RFT , for example). Back to
http://www.18watt.com/modules.php?name= ... ic&t=13255
for the Philips codes.
Let us be clear - the Blackburn plant turned out a lot of valves, but there were other plants in Mitcham and Kenley which were also making genuine Mullard valves - and the other plants in the Philips group made nice valves to the same design. The thing that ajkimba should be looking for is that group stylised code of 2-3 characters over 2-4 characters which makes it a Philips group code - but the Brimar code (6 or 7 chars with the silkscreen) and Mazda codes (6/7 chars etched along the axis for Ediswan, similar along or around for MBLE, something that looks like a Philips code but makes no sense for French Mazda) also say that you hav a good 'un. But the Blackburn valves are sought after all over - the S&H coded ("not equal") sign are about as good (better if you are a German), and the USA Amperex production (coded *) are VERY underrated. Mullard were the most relabelled makers on earth (I have Realistic tubes which have a Blackburn code). Any etched code is worth a follow-up - and a lot of old valves are still worthwhile, even without additional codes (Tungsram and RFT , for example). Back to
http://www.18watt.com/modules.php?name= ... ic&t=13255
for the Philips codes.
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