OH I ONLY WISHStrat wrote:
Hey Dart, when I read your 'Model, 18..' I stopped reading and thought, I really don't want to know about other 'sidelines' you might have
Dissimilar output tube pairs.
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dartanion
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Gary, with all that you have going on in there -- additional tubes, etc. -- might your cooling and reliability be better if you were to flip the chassis and cut a vent in the top of the cab? You could then clean all of the printing from the front and rear of the cab with acetone and have some faceplates and rear panels made to completely identify this as a Moore amp, rather than have the implication that this is a modded VJr. Thinking a bit more about it, modding the front panel to have a grille at the top for ventilation might also provide a customer with a "Moore Amps look and feel", and further distance your product from a modded Valve Junior. It would be pretty simple to do that with a fresh piece of plywood for the front panel and a different colored Tolex covering.Mooreamps wrote:Here's a photo.
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Re: Dissimilar output tube pairs.
6L6's have about the same plate resistance as EL34's, but would require different bias voltages at the same plate voltage. Cathode-bias would be the way to go, with each tube-type pair having it's own shared Rk/Ck.deiseldave wrote:I was reading Kevin O'connor's first TUT book, and he talked about using a pair of 6L6's along with a pair of 6V6's in PP. That seem's like a cool thing, but would be way more power than I would ever want.
Dave
Mesa Boogie used a pair of 6V6's together with a quartet of EL84's in its' Blue Angel amp. You could switch them in and out..6V6s, EL84's, or Both.
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Mooreamps
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Yes it would, yes it would. Those are lower layers of the onion which needs to be addressed. Besides, I use the chassis because it is convient because all the cosmetic work is done for me. This in itself is not a new concept as later on I intend to add some hot-rod mod's to my Ford F-150 truck. But, later on I will aquire the additional tooling to do my own chassis from scratch and my own boxes, ect. You guys are seeing the humble beginnings of my efforts.Ronzo wrote:Gary, with all that you have going on in there -- additional tubes, etc. -- might your cooling and reliability be better if you were to flip the chassis and cut a vent in the top of the cab? You could then clean all of the printing from the front and rear of the cab with acetone and have some faceplates and rear panels made to completely identify this as a Moore amp, rather than have the implication that this is a modded VJr. Thinking a bit more about it, modding the front panel to have a grille at the top for ventilation might also provide a customer with a "Moore Amps look and feel", and further distance your product from a modded Valve Junior. It would be pretty simple to do that with a fresh piece of plywood for the front panel and a different colored Tolex covering.Mooreamps wrote:Here's a photo.
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Mooreamps
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Re: Dissimilar output tube pairs.
You are exactly right. But in my single-ended layouts, since I use one power tube for treble responce and another power tube for bass responce, I'll never "switch" them in and out. I do bias them separetly, and I do balance the plates for driving the O/T.PCollen wrote:6L6's have about the same plate resistance as EL34's, but would require different bias voltages at the same plate voltage. Cathode-bias would be the way to go, with each tube-type pair having it's own shared Rk/Ck.deiseldave wrote:I was reading Kevin O'connor's first TUT book, and he talked about using a pair of 6L6's along with a pair of 6V6's in PP. That seem's like a cool thing, but would be way more power than I would ever want.
Dave
Mesa Boogie used a pair of 6V6's together with a quartet of EL84's in its' Blue Angel amp. You could switch them in and out..6V6s, EL84's, or Both.
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