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foreverstrung wrote: ↑

Sat 10/22/22 2:07 pm

Ya, it's not in the guide. As well, where the "shielded signal wire with 22AWG" is used. Same with the 20AWG "across the board" and 18AWG for power connections......please excuse my ignorance, I'm just not sure of these little things and where exactly each is supposed to be used as I refer to the build guide.

Look at the layout for the locations I use shielded wire. I think in the next update for the build guide, I'll include some of those spots from the layout to make sure everything is clear.

I appreciate your feedback!

Thanks,
Josh

So the PCB board I got from Josh is the 1.40.
files/JMPGuitars_18_Watt_Tremolo_TMB_Re ... Layout.pdf
This is the layout with the Reverb, but I'm not finding a schematic with the Reverb. I've found a schematic for the reverb with the 1.36 PCB board.
Please advise as I'm enlarging these drawings for easier viewing. There are a few different variances and I want to make sure I have the right docs for my build.

To clarify, I do have the note in the manual that specifies that the only difference between the 1.40 and the 1.36 is the tremolo speed cap and related resistor, so it might not be a big deal. Just looking for matching layout and schematic.

foreverstrung wrote: ↑

Sun 10/23/22 9:21 am

To clarify, I do have the note in the manual that specifies that the only difference between the 1.40 and the 1.36 is the tremolo speed cap and related resistor, so it might not be a big deal. Just looking for matching layout and schematic.

Look at the schematic. You should see the extra .01uF cap with a switch. That matches 1.4x, not 1.3x, so you're good to go...though anybody with 1.3x can mod to match if they want to.

Thanks,
Josh

Speaking of some people ignoring schematics...

I opened the Lite 2b(ish) schematic today and saw a random 1uF (text label, no component) floating near the preamp. It's been on that schematic for 1.5 years, and nobody mentioned it.

I hate sounding like an idiot, so apologies up front if it comes off that way.
I'm new to reading schematics, but I'm getting there. In the layout, I've got two lines between the standby switch and the PT, with 2 uF470's diodes in each. 4 total.
On the schematic, if I'm reading it right, the juice is moving from the transformer to the standby switch, yes?
All that being said, (asked), I REALLY just want to wire the thing up right. Hopefully more understanding as I go.........So the question really is, the uF470's. 2 in each line, moving to the switch?

Found it. Slow going, but moving in the right direction. Learned a little about diodes today

I do have one question tho about running these diodes to the standby switch. Can I install then side by side or do they have to be "in line" as the layout and schematic shows.
I installed side by side as there's not a lot of distance between the too points AND I didn't want them getting too hot. Soldering them together in line, with such a short distance would be really tricky. Even side by side I needed to take my time.

foreverstrung wrote: ↑

Sun 11/06/22 12:21 pm

I do have one question tho about running these diodes to the standby switch. Can I install then side by side or do they have to be "in line" as the layout and schematic shows.
I installed side by side as there's not a lot of distance between the too points AND I didn't want them getting too hot. Soldering them together in line, with such a short distance would be really tricky. Even side by side I needed to take my time.

I'm curious what issue you're having with that? Here's how I do it, using the same parts you have:
As you can see, I actually made the inline pairs of UF4007 diodes longer than I needed to.

I highly recommend getting some good quality heat shrink tubing if you don't already have some.

Thanks,
Josh

it's not that I'm having a problem, there's just 2 ways to run these diodes. With the heat shrink, I can't see how you ran them. (I do have quality shrink wrap). I put mine side by side, rather than in line. You follow? I used 2 in each line. (4 total), but the 2 in each line, I have together. Side by side. Not in line like the layout. Does that matter?.
Not a problem, just a question.
Also, the film resistor on the filter cap calls for a 220K on the layout and these Dale CMF60's, I've got a 221K, is this what I want? I get that that's a silly difference, but this really is my first rodeo and I'm going to be asking some questions like this as we go. I hope that's cool and I'm not blacklisted. LOL

From your pics I can see the film resistor is a 221k, so I've got that. (I figured it was good, but I don't want to assume if I can ask and confirm.
However, if it's not cool to have the diodes together, side by side, I'll redo them "in line"

the schematic. I think you're refering to the rectifier? In that case you should attach 2 sets of diodes in series, next to each other. One set starts at one HT wire, and the other set starts at the other HT wire. They all should be orientated with the striped end pointing towards the stand-by switch. Heat shrink each string individually to avoid shorts.
If you decide to add a sag resistor, that would be placed between the end-conjunction of the diodes and the switch.

I don't think I'm being clear.
Between the standby switch and the PT.
I believe the correct term is "in series" (I was calling them in line) is how there supposed to be installed as per the drawing
I've installed them "in parallel". (I was calling them side by side.)

To clarify, I've got one line, with (2)-uf4007 diodes, in parallel, not series
Then I've got the 2nd line the same way, (2)-uf4007, in parallel, not series.
This is not acceptable, correct? Or does it matter in this application?

foreverstrung wrote: ↑

Mon 11/07/22 11:30 am

Yes, rectifier.
I don't think I'm being clear. I believe the correct term is "in series" (I was calling them in line) is how there supposed to be installed as per the drawing
I've installed them "in parallel". (I was calling them side by side.)

To clarify, I've got one line, with (2)-uf4007 diodes, in parallel, not series
Then I've got the 2nd line the same way, (2)-uf4007, in parallel, not series
This is not acceptable, correct? Or does it matter in this application?

Each pair is in series, that's how it's shown in the schematic and layout:
They converge at the same point on the standby switch, but it's two halves of the PT secondary converging.

Thanks,
Josh

Thx
I'll redo it correctly.

This shielded wire applications, I'm assuming that I'm only connecting the inner wire. The exterior braided wire is clipped back and then shrink wrapped to keep the ends clean and tidy. Correct? That's how it "appears" to me from the TMB manual.
Also, you guys, I don't want to hijack this thread with these questions. If it's more "politically correct", I'll start a new thread......Please advise.

foreverstrung wrote: ↑

Thu 11/10/22 4:26 pm

This shielded wire applications, I'm assuming that I'm only connecting the inner wire. The exterior braided wire is clipped back and then shrink wrapped to keep the ends clean and tidy. Correct? That's how it "appears" to me from the TMB manual.
Also, you guys, I don't want to hijack this thread with these questions. If it's more "politically correct", I'll start a new thread......Please advise.

That's correct for only one end of the shielded wire. The opposite end gets the outer braid connected to ground (that's what creates the shield).

Don't worry about it, that's what this thread is for. ...but you are welcome to start your own thread if you want to post your progress separately.

Thanks,
Josh

I think it's nice that the TremTMB is getting some attention. Next week I'm starting a new TremTMB build, but in an angled chassis ... the same type of chassis I build my Rockin'Bird Reverb and 6G3 Plexi 6L6 Reverb with. I'm trying the 1-tube reverb with a 12DW7 this time...

That's correct for only one end of the shielded wire. The opposite end gets the outer braid connected to ground (that's what creates the shield).

this makes sense

Another quick question. My power jack is not the same as in the TMB manual. I suspect the power input jack in the manual has a slow blow fuse contained. I have none. But as this pic shows, I've got a hole in the chassis, (but not the plate. easy enough to drill). I'm sure this is the spot for a solo slow blow fuse. But it's not in any layout I have, nor could I find anything in this forum. I see it in the schematic and I'm getting better reading and deciphering them, but I sure would appreciate some direction on this fuse holder. I'd like to have something to compare it too if I install one using the schematic as I see it.
To clarify, it appears to be real simple, but I wanted to run it by you guys.
Which kind/type specifically. Does it matter? Suggestions on where to pick one up and best of all, a pic or something of the layout with it in.
Thx