18Watt.com

Watched this video and recalled this conversation. Interest is that Marshall created an oversize ported 1x12 for the lead and bass 20. But little is known about it.

Dd
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVbvS85MyO0

PS You get an internal of cab and amp later in the video

https://www.ampmaker.com/speaker-lead-and-bass-1x12/

There's a copy of it. It's big isn't it!

I agree with Josh above - WGS makes some great drivers. I'd try their 10" offerings.
I used a pair of Celestion 10s that had been tweaked and branded by Matchless for my first 18w clone. They still sound great these many years later.
In my little 1-10 combo I used a Jensen 10" Mod speaker. They were super cheap and they offered two versions so I got one of each and tried them both. They both sounded good but one had better bottom end. I built the 1-10 combo cabinet to be as resonant as possible and it worked. That little 1-10 is a monster. It is loud, aggressive and has a pretty good bottom end for such a small box and speaker. I would not hesitate to use this little 1-10 18W combo on a gig.

Thanks graydon,

What were your considerations for making it as resonant as possible?

I did a few things.

1. The chassis has an angled front panel and the speaker baffle is attached directly to the chassis at the top. It attaches to the cabinet at the bottom and in between on the sides, there is no support in the middle. The baffle is free to vibrate much like a tweed Fender baffle. Being attached to the chassis provides a direct path for mechanical feedback.
2. The baffle is made from 1/4" plywood so its fairly light and flexible
3. The rest of the cabinet is made from 1/2" solid pine so it also is very light and resonant.
4. There is no tolex to damp it - just raw wood finish, stained black.

Graydon wrote: ↑

Tue 03/28/23 11:55 am

I did a few things.

1. The chassis has an angled front panel and the speaker baffle is attached directly to the chassis at the top. It attaches to the cabinet at the bottom and in between on the sides, there is no support in the middle. The baffle is free to vibrate much like a tweed Fender baffle. Being attached to the chassis provides a direct path for mechanical feedback.
2. The baffle is made from 1/4" plywood so its fairly light and flexible
3. The rest of the cabinet is made from 1/2" solid pine so it also is very light and resonant.
4. There is no tolex to damp it - just raw wood finish, stained black.

geez, casually dropping F-bombs like that...

Graydon wrote:I did a few things.

1. The chassis has an angled front panel and the speaker baffle is attached directly to the chassis at the top. It attaches to the cabinet at the bottom and in between on the sides, there is no support in the middle. The baffle is free to vibrate much like a tweed Fender baffle. Being attached to the chassis provides a direct path for mechanical feedback.
2. The baffle is made from 1/4" plywood so its fairly light and flexible
3. The rest of the cabinet is made from 1/2" solid pine so it also is very light and resonant.
4. There is no tolex to damp it - just raw wood finish, stained black.

Great info thanks

Sent from my SM-J600FN using Tapatalk