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I just finished the build and fired it up through a dim bulb tester and to a dummy load without tubes. No shorts, so I turn it off, discharge the caps and add pre-amp tubes one at a time and check for shorts again. All is well so far. Added both power tubes and 150 watt bulb barely lights, which I expected. Turned it off, plugged in a speaker and the trouble starts.
The first problem I ran into was severe static at one volume setting and random chirps (birdies) on the TMB channel. I thought I might have a bad volume pot but after chopsticking, I found that if I moved the pin 7 lead on the PI tube that the static and noise disappeared. I shut off the amp and inspected my solder joints and they were sound. The tube socket pin holes were tight as well. On a whim, I changed tubes and the static and chirps disappeared. Okay, I thought, problem solved. Now there are random pops and crackles coming through at just about any volume level above zero. I chopsticked some more and the only reaction I get are thumps when I tap the .022 and .01 coupling capacitors from both channels into the PI. I suspect that I have bad pre-amp tubes (new JJ's, I know, I know ) but I want to ask the experts here.

Attached is the voltage sheet and a gut shot. The line voltage here averages about 125V.

Hi

Looks like a decent job all in all, but I would start chopsticking for bad solder joints after you've ruled out bad tubes.

Thanks for your reply, Bieworm. I found the problem. It turns out that the amp was picking up rf signals from my cell phone and wi-fi in the shop. My first clue was when there was a series of "machine gun" noises coming through the amp. I knew that wasn't random, so I unplugged the router and moved my phone away from the amp and all the pops and cracks disappeared.

I did add a 20v and a 15v zener between the 1st and 2nd filter caps to drop the voltages. The voltage readings are for the most part better but there are still a couple that are a bit off, particularly V1 plate voltages are about 13-15 volts high and the PI plate voltages are 10 volts low. Power tube screen and plate voltages are 4 volts low and 5 volts high respectively.

I am going to have to change the bias resistor. I'm only getting 29.8 mA plate current per tube. That's 80% dissipation. Too cold per Rob Robinette's bias calculator.

Hi

the voltages don't look out of the ordinary. Raising the plate dissipation on the power tubes will lower overall voltages to some degree, but I wouldn't bias the amp much higher than 85% (the EL84 tubes will last longer) and don't get fooled by people that claim 100% bias is ok in cathode biased amps. Those break down frequently and give EL84 amps a bad rep. I.E. Voxes. The sweet spot for EL84's sits somewhere between 75 and 85% plate dissipation.
I suggest you try a 180 ohm bias resistor and see where that brings your amp voltage wise.
I wouldn't go into the fine tuning B+ dropping resistors rabbit hole. You can keep the 200R resistor too if it sounds good to you.
I know out of experience it's tempting to experiment with component values, but in the end you'll have a messier build and introduce more problems/noises in the process. So I'd say try a 180R bias resistor and evaluate. When all is fine settle down and start playing the snot out of it

Thank you for your help, Bieworm. I will order a 180 ohm power resistor and try it.